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Chocolate 

GANACHE & TRUFFLES

Traditional Chocolate Ganache (Made the Traditional Way or With a Food Processor)

Scharffen Berger Truffles with Variations
Easy Chocolate Ganache (made with chocolate chips)
White Chocolate Ganache 
Dark Chocolate Ganache Mousse
Gale Gand's Chocolate Truffles (ganache center's made with chocolate ganache)
Classic Champagne Truffles
Dipped Chocolate Truffles  
Chocolate Peanut Butter Truffles  
Easy Chocolate Truffles
VARIOUS CHOCOLATE TO HEAVY CREAM PROPORTIONS: Recipes vary depending upon its use. If the recipe is more chocolate than cream, it yields a firm ganache, whereas more cream than chocolate makes a softer more velvety mixture
TYPE CHOCOLATE HEAVY CREAM PURPOSE: 
Ordinary Dark 1 pound dark 1 cup (8 ounces) Used as a glaze or beaten to a "buttercream-like" texture for cake fillings and/or frostings  
Rich Dark 1 pound dark 12 ounces Same as ordinary dark.
Truffle Dark 1 pound dark 16 ounces Beaten to a thick and velvety texture for fillings
Ordinary White 3 parts white 1 part Used as a glaze or beaten to a "buttercream-like" texture for cake fillings and/or frostings. 

What is CHOCOLATE GANACHE ? Whether you know it or not, that creamy, delicately flavored chocolate stuff found in the center of a rich truffle is called ganache. You may also recognize it as a glaze on a cake, as a whipped filling or frosting or as a piped decoration. 

All ganache starts out with a rich mixture made from varying proportions of chopped chocolate and boiled heavy pastuerized cream, cooled to various degrees of temperature and mixed in certain ways, yielding different uses. Ganche can be flavored, have extra ingredients added, such as butter for richness, and corn syrup for shine!   

HOW GANACHE WORKS:

At first glance, it appears that ganache is a simple mixture of just two ingredients, heavy cream and chocolate. But, there's a lot more science going on behind the scenes to give you a successful ganache mixture that won't separate, become grainy, hard, crack, curdle or firm. (Problems and Solutions)

Ganache is a really a complex combination of an emulsification and a suspension that occurs between the chocolate and cream ingredients. An emulsification is a suspension of small globules of one liquid in a second liquid with which the first will not mix, ie: an emulsion of oil in vinegar or cream is an emulsion of butterfat in water. A suspension is a material in which a substance is dispersed in a liquid in clusters or particles consisting of many molecules. Nonfat milk is a suspension of milk-protein particles in water. The continuous phase of the mixture, or the "appearance" of its molecules or matter (ie: solid, liquid or gas), is a syrup made from the cream's water and the chocolate's sugar. Suspended in the syrup are the milk are the cream's fat globules and the cocoa butter's fat droplets and solid cocoa particles from the chocolate.

To emulsify the chocolate and cream, the cream is first heated which reduces its water content. The hot cream is poured over the chocolate and it melts after sitting for a few minutes. They are slowly mixed together. The waiting time also serves to bring down its temperature down because emulsions form better at 90 degrees to 110 degrees F. The emulsification takes place by the combination of work or stirring, which breaks down the fat in both the cream and chocolate into microscopic droplets, small enough to be suspended within the water  - and the use of an emulsifier to stabilize the system, or fatty acids present in the milk.

As a general rule, the higher the fat content of the cream, the richer and more stable the finished ganache will be. (The milk solids in the cream also help thicken the ganache and the butterfat lends smoothness and moistness). I like to use heavy whipping cream to make ganache. Even crème fraîche or sour cream can be used instead of heavy cream. 

I recommend using a high quality dark chocolate, such as Valhrona or Dove, but find a chocolate you like and stick with it. If using milk or white chocolate just note that they are more temperamental; they contain milk or milk fat, unlike dark chocolate, making them more susceptible to damage from heat. Because of the milk, they also make "softer" ganache, so adjust the proportion of cream downward.

In my opinion, this is a technically perfect ganache recipe.

Storage: A classic ganache can generally stay at room temperature for 2 days, as long as it's kept in a cool place. But, there are lots of exceptions to this rule - see also important discussion about storing ganache. If in a bowl, always place a piece of plastic wrap firmly against its surface so a film does not form or it won't form a sugar crust on its surface. It is perfect to use for a cake or wedding cake that has to sit out -- to store, place under a covered cake saver or inverted bowl so as not to mar its surface. Freeze for up to 3 months.

Question: Why doesn't ganache need refrigeration?
Answer: Because of its high content of sugar and fat. Micro-organisms need water to grow. When the sugar content is so high, the sugar binds the water in such a way that micro-organisms cannot utilize it. Technically its called "water activity control." 

You have to have a Classic Ganache Recipe that uses high fat heavy cream with chocolate, and then it can be generally stored on the cool side of room temperature for about 2 days only, IF emulsified properly, with the proper balance of ingredients, otherwise refrigerate. See important discussion about storing ganache. Some recipes call for added butter, which is fat, and corn syrup, which is sugar. As one reduces sugar or fat, then the water activity properties are reduced. In general, to reduce sugar and keep water activity control, fat has to be increased. (That's why bakery or confection "low fat" items are loaded with sugar and "low carb" items are loaded with fat.)

Ganache can be flavored by infusing flavor into the heavy cream or by adding flavor to it after the chocolate-cream emulsion has formed:

bulletInfuse flavor to hot cream: Infuse herbs and spices, such as lavender, into the cream after heating. Then, strain before using.
bulletAdd flavor to cold cream: Mint, coffee beans and tea leaves. Chop and blend into the cold cream, and allow to sit overnight. Strain the pieces from the cream when ready to use.
bulletAdd flavors to the ganache: Liqueurs, brandies, extracts, fruit purees, instant espresso powder, spices. I like to use Armagnac, a kind of dry brandy. Add when the warm ganache has been blended and is smooth. All must be at room temperature.
 
bullet Add chocolate nibs
Additional Ingredients... What it adds...
Ingredients must be at room temperature before adding to warm ganache. If too cold, they will cool the mixture before you decide what to do with it
Light corn syrup: Light sweetening and smoothness, extra shine

Butter: Flavor and richness. Butter that is too soft or melted will result in a creamy texture. To prepare it for mixing, let butter stand at room temperature until softened but still cool.

If you want to double or triple a ganache recipe, don't make it if the resulting chocolate totals over 1 to 2 pounds; you'll have an easier time. 

TO MAKE GANACHE THE TRADITIONAL WAY (VERSUS MAKE IN A FOOD PROCESSOR):

1. The chocolate is chopped and weighed before using.  I like to use Valrhona 56% cacao chocolate (available from specialty and cake decorating stores). Instead of chopping the chocolate yourself, you can also purchase pure chocolate wafers, weigh and use as is -- they look like large chocolate chips. They are available at any outlet that sells good, pure  chocolate. Don't confuse them with courverture or compound chocolate

2. Place chopped chocolate in a large and wide, heatproof bowl; you don't want to use a deep one because it will take longer for the chocolate to melt. If I am making whipped ganache, I place mine in my stand-mixer bowl. This way I can melt the chocolate and then whip it, using only one bowl.  

I like to use equal parts of cream and chocolate for my ganache. If you want something a little chewier, remove 1/4 cup of the cream out and substitute with 1/4 cup vegetable oil. That will make it a little glossier and a little chewier. You can also experiment and find a texture that's to your liking.
*Boil is defined as heating liquid until bubbles break on the surface of the liquid.

3. In a large, deep, heavy bottomed pan, on medium-low heat, bring heavy cream to a boil*. Turn down the heat and let the cream continue with a slow boil for a full minute. Stir often, making sure the cream does not burn and you don't want the cream to foam and reach the top of the pan. The Founder of La Maison du Chocolat in Paris, boils the cream three times -- he believes that makes the ganache last longer. I have never tried it; if you do, compensate for the extra evaporation by starting with a little more cream.

4. Immediately take the cream from the heat and pour all over the chopped chocolate all at once. (Pour through a strainer when using the crème fraiche or sour cream.) Never add cold liquids to the chocolate as it will seize and lump. The cream must cover all of it and will melt the chocolate. Briefly mash the large pieces down into the cream with a wire whisk. DO NOT STIR. The mixture should sit for at least 2 to 4 minutes (or more) until the chocolate starts to melt. 

5.  When the chocolate has somewhat melted, stir the ingredients together with a heatproof rubber spatula. Begin stirring in the center in concentric circles, and gradually widen it towards the edges of the bowl to pull in more chocolate. You do not want to whip air into it, but you want to mix it thoroughly until combined. If you can't get all of the chocolate to melt, keep stirring from the center out. If you use an immersion blender, it must be fully submergered. Don't overwork the chocolate mixture beyond combining, as it can curdle and turn into a gray, grainy mess.  And, avoid incorporating air bubbles into the mixture. If you do, strain through a fine mesh strainer when done.

6. When mixed, you should end up with a smooth, glossy liquid called ganache. At this point, add in liqueurs and other liquid flavorings, all at room temperature, and gently stir to incorporate. 

7. Ganche can be left as is and poured, cooled and thickened, piped, or whipped. 

PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS: Ganache can be temperamental because it is an emulsion: Bakers ask me a lot of questions on how to solve problems with their broken, greasy and problematic ganache mixtures. To solve their problems, since ganache is an emulsion, I did some research on emulsions and what brings them together and breaks them apart.

Type  Problem

Solution

Classic Ganache Curdles

Ingredients overmixed: Gently mix in a couple of tablespoons of hot cream, keeping the whisk submerged so as not to add air. Then, strain.

  Becomes grainy Overmixed/Overagitated: Steady, gentle mixing (agitation) is essential in reducing the fat to tiny droplets. Aggressive mixing causes graininess. Strain and re-stir if necessary. If it does not work, toss and start again. 
  Hardens after making, sitting and/or refrigerating

Poured Ganache: If it becomes too hard, place bowl over a pan of hot water and lightly stir until just reheated--don't whip because you don't want to whip the cream. Whipped Ganache: Try and beat a second time. If too cold, it will be too stiff, so rewarm. Place in a bowl of hot water or place back over a simmering pot of water for just a few minutes until the bowl has warmed. Remove from heat. Stir ganache until melted. Beat. 

  Separates Temperature of ingredients not compatible: High and low temperatures can break an emulsion. The emulsion of ganache starts when you start stirring the melted chocolate and cream together. If the mixture is too hot (above 110 degrees F) when you start mixing, you''ll start to see the fat molecules sitting on top of the mixture, an indication that the fat is starting to separate out of the mixture. In that case, slowly add a small amount of cold cream to the ganache and stir gently. This will recrystallize the chocolate's fat molecules and bring the mixture back together. If the mixture is too cold, and hard to mix, gently warm the mixture on top of a double boiler, until it is easier to stir.
  Gets Dull and Cracks Temperature of dessert not compatible:  Many times ganache will dull from refrigeration; to make it shiny again, after refrigeration, use a hair dryer on low making sure you do not keep it pointed on one place otherwise you will melt the ganache glaze. I also find adding a little corn syrup or even butter to the ganache also helps to keep it shiny.
  Bubbles Overwhipped: Strain mixture through a fine mesh strainer. You may have to do it several times. Stirring with a spatula or spoon creates tiny air bubbles bubbles. We use a small burr mixer (otherwise known as a hand or immersion blender). Make sure the blender head stays under the surface of the glaze while blending. 
  Does not firm Cream was not boiled: Bring cream to a boil for a minute or more. It reduces the water content in the cream and breaks up the protein strands. Emulsified sauces combine better when the amount of water is reduced.
Glaze Bubbles Overwhipped or using a spoon or spatula: Stirring with a spatula or spoon creates tiny air bubbles. Use a small burr mixer (otherwise known as a hand or immersion blender). Make sure the blender head stays under the surface of the glaze while blending. 
Truffles Coating cracks Centers are too cold: The coating on truffles will crack when it sets if cold centers are dipped into the warm tempered chocolate or any other coating. Allow the dipped truffles to sit at room temperature until the temperature of the centers has stabilized (about two hours) to dip them again. They should show no cracking after the second dipping.
~DIFFERENT TYPES OF GANACHE CAN BE MADE~
TYPE:

HOW TO:

NOTES:

HOW TO GLAZE - Ganache can be poured like a glaze on cakes, that sets with a beautiful shine and smoothness, and also seals in freshness. -- you can tell if a cake has been glazed with it because it has a glossy and smooth chocolate surface. 

To make: I always double the recipe in case I need extra. 4 cups is enough to glaze an 8-inch cake. For pouring, the ganache mixture should be approximately 86 to 91 degrees F measured with an Instant Read Thermometer (Stir the mixture before inserting the tip of the thermometer in the center of the mixture) or feel just slightly warm -- it must remain pourable -- it should look and pour like corn syrup in order to glaze the cake or a frozen dessert. If ganaching a chilled mousse, it should be chilled thoroughly so the ganache will set quickly and not melt it.

If the ganache is too hot, press a piece of plastic wrap on the top of the ganache so a film does not form and allow it to sit at a cool, room temperature until just thickened, about 15 minutes, or so. Be careful so it does not cool too much.

Butter cakes are better glazed with a denser ganache (equal weights chocolate and cream). 
When ganache cools in a bowl or pan right after being made, it becomes thick and malleable like fudge, perfect for making truffle centers with. Cover warm ganache mixture with a piece of plastic wrap pressed on the top of the ganache so a film does not form. Allow it to sit at a cool, room temperature until just thickened, about 15 minutes, or so. 

The truffle centers are made by scooping out some and rolling them into small balls. They are then covered with tempered chocolate to make a truffle. When eaten, the centers are described as silky, smooth, light and creamy. 

Centers can be flavored with liqueurs, extracts and fruit puree.
WHIPPED or PIPED GANACHE FOR FROSTINGS, FILLINGS AND DECORATIONS (or, even mousse)

 

After mixing and before whipping or piping, the ganache needs to cool and thicken. You want it to because it will whip faster and have a better texture for piping. 

This is done by setting it aside for an hour at a cool, room temperature or until thick enough to be malleable like clay. Before you do, cover with a piece of plastic wrap pressed on the top of the ganache so a film does not form. 

For quick cooling, place bowl in a larger bowl containing ice and stir constantly until cool to the touch. Don't let it get too cold because you shouldn't whip it if it does. To warm,  in a warm place in the kitchen to soften -- do not reheat. 

bullet PIPED: Make sure ganache thick enough to hold a shape. It is ready to be piped.
bulletWHIPPED: Place lukewarm ganache in a mixing bowl and whip it vigorously by hand or with an electric mixer on medium-high. Do this until mixture has cooled, lightened in color and is fluffy. Do not overwhip, otherwise it will become grainy. 
bulletFILLING AND FROSTING: For frosting with a smooth velvety texture, butter is often added. It has to be soft enough to cream with the other ingredients, otherwise it won't whip. Butter that is too soft or melted will result in a frosting that doesn't have a creamy texture. To prepare it for mixing, let butter stand at room temperature until softened but still cool. Add the butter in chunks until combined after the melted chocolate and cream have formed an emulsion. 
Whipped ganache is perfect to use as a filling for airy cakes such as a sponge or genoise

It can also be used for a Ganache Mouss Recipe topped with whipped cream --- YUMMY !! 

With added butter and flavorings, ganche can be used as a fluffy frosting or cake filling, as in the American Chocolate Cake Recipe.

Some center mixtures when making truffles:
Ganache: Primarily used when making truffles. It is a mixture of heavy cream and chocolate. It can be flavored with liqueurs. 
Gianduja: a sweet chocolate or milk chocolate combined with hazelnut paste. It can be bought ready-made, but may also be made by mixing chocolate, butter and praline paste, which can be homemade or store bought.
Nougatine: Caramel mixed with sliced or chopped almonds. It can be rolled out to a thin sheet on buttered marble, cut into shapes and then dipped in tempered chocolate for a simple and crunchy confection.
Marzipan: It may be further flavored, formed or cut into uniform shapes, then dipped in tempered chocolate.

CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES: Chocolate truffles are ganache in its simplest form. Truffle candies imitate Perigord truffles covered with earth. The goal is to make them small so they look like their namesakes, freshly dug from the earth. 

For tempering instructions, the premiere American chocolate maker Scharffen Berger recommends the cooking site at www.baking911.com, besides their own! See the Contra Costa Times article AND truffle recipe.

Truffles are small balls of ganache, not golf-ball or egg-sized, which become the centers -- silky smooth, light and creamy -- and then are coated with tempered chocolate, which gives it its crisp outside. 

After truffles have been dipped in chocolate, they must "set" one or two minutes before they can be optionally rolled in cocoa powder, powdered sugar or chopped nuts or left as is and optionally drizzled with tempered chocolate over its top. But once the chocolate is firmly set, additional decoration cannot be added unless you want to start over again by re-dipping in chocolate. 

Classic French-style truffles are usually small, irregularly-shaped spheres of a dark chocolate ganache, dipped into melted dark chocolate, then dusted with cocoa powder.

Make a batch of "truffle" ganache. After making, press a piece of plastic wrap on the surface and place it in the refrigerator or let sit for an hour if the room is cool. The plastic wrap prevents a skin from forming. After about 15 - 30 minutes, remove the chilled and firm ganache from the refrigerator.

Make sure the ganache is very firm so it can be easily formed. Make the shapes no more than 3/4- to 1-inch wide in diameter or length and width because the ganache is so rich.  There are several ways to form truffle centers:

Round truffle centers, the traditional shape, are made by: 
bulletUsing a teaspoon to scoop out some ganache, roll into a ball between the palms of your hand. Work quickly because hands are very warm (98.6 degrees F) and will quickly soften the ganache. If it does, chill briefly to harden; or,
bullet Piping with a reusable or disposable pastry bag fitted with a 3/8-inch metal tip or opening made by simply snipping off the point of the bag. A large parchment cone may be used, as well. Make sure you finish off each mound with a flick of the wrist to soften and angle the pastry tip.

For square or odd shapes: 

bulletForm the ganache into long rectangle and chill in a rimmed cookie sheet. Cut to size. Odd shapes must be formed by hand.

Finish truffle centers by coating with tempered chocolate and optionally decorating. Make sure it remains in the "temperate zone" while using. 

I recommend that the ganache center be at room temperature before coating with warm tempered chocolate. Otherwise the chocolate will stiffen in the bowl from the cold and/or will crack when hardened. 

There are several ways to cover a truffle:

bulletSmear some chocolate on a gloved hand (use the thin white gloves available from the grocery store). Gently rub each chilled truffle center to coat lightly with chocolate; or, 
bulletDrop the truffle center into the chocolate. Move it around and flip it over to coat both sides with a chocolate dipping or regular fork. Lift out and shake off excess by tapping the fork on the side of the bowl. Another way is to use your chocolate hand, flip it over to coat both sides then lift it out, tapping the back of your hand on the edge of the bowl to remove the excess chocolate.

There are several ways to finish a covered truffle:

bulletFlip the coated center onto a parchment paper lined tray with your thumb and allow to set up in a cool part of the kitchen for about an hour. 
bulletFinish with a chocolate squiggle or dried fruits and nuts before it sets. With left-over tempered chocolate, drizzle designs on truffle with the tines of a fork or piped with a parchment cone. Or, you can bounce your chocolate-covered middle finger up and down over the top of the candy until a string forms and “writing” with this string. This takes practice, but eventually you will become good at it and will be able to mark all of your candies. Dried fruit or a piece of a nut can be pressed into its still-soft surface for a great finishing touch.
bulletAfter truffles have been enrobed in chocolate, they must "set" one or two minutes before they can be optionally rolled into a bowl of sifted cocoa powder or other dry coverings, such as sifted confectioner's sugar, chopped nuts or praline powder. Roll the center with a fork so it is covered all over. If working with your hands and using cocoa or powdered sugar, dust them first to help prevent sticking. Work quickly with your fingertips because the palms of your hands are warm and can easily melt the chocolate covering or dissolve the ingredients that are dusted on the outside. After dusting, place a few at a time in a large sieve or strainer, and gently tap out excess coverings.  

Store finished truffles in an airtight container, best kept in the refrigerator. If a truffle is filled with a cream-like center that is perishable, it must be refrigerated. If frozen, truffles are good for a month or so, depending on your freezer. 

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