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Chocolate
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GANACHE &
TRUFFLES |
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VARIOUS CHOCOLATE TO HEAVY CREAM
PROPORTIONS:
Recipes
vary
depending upon its use. If
the recipe is more chocolate than cream, it yields a firm ganache, whereas
more cream than chocolate makes a softer more velvety mixture. |
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TYPE |
CHOCOLATE |
HEAVY CREAM |
PURPOSE: |
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Ordinary Dark |
1 pound dark |
1 cup (8 ounces) |
Used as a glaze or beaten to a "buttercream-like" texture for
cake fillings and/or frostings |
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Rich Dark |
1 pound dark |
12 ounces |
Same as ordinary dark. |
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Truffle Dark |
1 pound dark |
16 ounces |
Beaten to a thick and velvety texture for fillings |
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Ordinary White |
3 parts white |
1 part |
Used as a glaze or beaten to a "buttercream-like" texture for
cake fillings and/or frostings. |
What is CHOCOLATE
GANACHE ? Whether you know it or
not, that creamy, delicately flavored chocolate stuff found in the center of a
rich truffle is called ganache. You may
also recognize it as a glaze on a cake, as a whipped filling or frosting or as a
piped decoration.
All ganache starts out with a rich mixture made
from varying proportions of chopped chocolate
and boiled heavy pastuerized cream,
cooled to various degrees of temperature and mixed in certain ways,
yielding
different uses.
Ganche can be
flavored, have
extra ingredients added, such as butter for
richness, and corn syrup for shine!
HOW GANACHE WORKS:
At first glance, it appears that ganache is a simple mixture
of just two ingredients, heavy cream and chocolate. But, there's a lot more
science going on behind the scenes to give you a successful ganache mixture that
won't separate, become grainy, hard, crack, curdle or firm. (Problems
and Solutions)
Ganache is a really a complex combination of an emulsification
and a suspension that occurs between the chocolate and cream ingredients. An
emulsification is a suspension of small globules of one liquid in a second
liquid with which the first will not mix, ie: an emulsion of oil in vinegar or
cream is an emulsion of butterfat in water. A suspension is a material in which
a substance is dispersed in a liquid in clusters or particles consisting of many
molecules. Nonfat milk is a suspension of milk-protein particles in water. The
continuous phase of the mixture, or the "appearance" of its molecules or matter
(ie: solid, liquid or gas), is a syrup made from the cream's water and the
chocolate's sugar. Suspended in the syrup are the milk are the cream's fat
globules and the cocoa butter's fat droplets and solid cocoa particles from the
chocolate.
To emulsify the chocolate and cream, the cream is first heated
which reduces its water content. The hot
cream is poured over the chocolate and it melts after sitting for a few minutes.
They are slowly mixed together. The waiting time also
serves to bring down its temperature down because emulsions form better at 90
degrees to 110 degrees F. The emulsification takes place by the combination of
work or stirring, which breaks down the fat in both the cream and chocolate into
microscopic droplets, small enough to be suspended within the water - and
the use of an emulsifier to stabilize the system, or fatty acids present in the
milk.
As a general rule, the higher the fat content of the cream,
the richer and more stable the finished ganache will be. (The milk solids in the
cream also help thicken the ganache and the butterfat lends smoothness and
moistness). I like to use
heavy whipping cream
to make ganache. Even
crème fraîche or sour cream can be used
instead of heavy cream.
I recommend using a
high quality dark chocolate,
such as Valhrona or Dove, but find a chocolate you like and stick with it. If
using milk or white chocolate just note that they are more temperamental; they
contain milk or milk fat, unlike dark chocolate, making them more susceptible to
damage from heat. Because of the milk, they also make "softer" ganache, so
adjust the proportion of cream downward.
In my opinion, this is a
technically perfect ganache recipe.
Storage: A classic ganache can
generally stay
at room temperature for 2 days, as long as it's kept in a cool place. But, there
are lots of exceptions to this rule - see also
important
discussion about storing ganache. If in a bowl, always
place a piece of plastic wrap firmly against its surface so a film does not form
or it won't form a sugar crust on its surface. It is perfect to use for a cake
or wedding cake that has to sit out --
to store, place under a covered cake saver or inverted bowl so as not to mar its
surface. Freeze for up to 3 months.
Question:
Why doesn't ganache need refrigeration?
Answer: Because of its high content of sugar and
fat. Micro-organisms need water to grow. When the sugar content is so
high, the sugar binds the water in such a way that micro-organisms cannot
utilize it. Technically its called "water activity control."
You have to have a
Classic Ganache Recipe
that uses high fat heavy cream with chocolate, and then it can be
generally stored on the cool side of room temperature for about 2 days
only, IF emulsified properly, with the proper balance of ingredients,
otherwise refrigerate. See
important discussion about storing ganache. Some recipes call for added butter, which is fat, and corn syrup, which is
sugar. As one reduces sugar or fat, then the water activity properties are
reduced. In general, to reduce sugar and keep water activity control, fat
has to be increased. (That's why bakery or confection "low fat" items are
loaded with sugar and "low carb" items are loaded with fat.) |
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Ganache
can be flavored by infusing flavor
into the heavy cream or by adding flavor to it after the chocolate-cream
emulsion has formed:: |
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 | Infuse
flavor to hot cream:
Infuse herbs and spices, such as lavender,
into the cream after heating. Then, strain before using.
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 | Add flavor to
cold cream:
Mint, coffee beans and tea leaves.
Chop and blend into the cold cream, and allow to sit overnight. Strain
the pieces from the cream when ready to use. |
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 | Add
flavors to the ganache:
Liqueurs, brandies, extracts, fruit
purees, instant espresso powder, spices.
I like to use Armagnac, a kind of dry brandy. Add when the
warm ganache has been blended
and is smooth. All must be at room temperature. |
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Additional
Ingredients... |
What it adds... |
Ingredients
must be at room temperature before adding to warm ganache. If too cold, they
will cool the mixture before you decide
what to do with it. |
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Light corn syrup: Light sweetening and
smoothness, extra shine |
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Butter: Flavor and
richness. Butter that is too soft or melted will
result in a creamy texture. To prepare it for mixing, let butter stand at
room temperature until softened but still cool. |
If you
want to double or triple a ganache recipe, don't make it if the resulting
chocolate totals over 1 to 2 pounds; you'll have an
easier time. |
TO MAKE GANACHE
THE TRADITIONAL WAY (VERSUS
MAKE IN A FOOD PROCESSOR):
1.
The chocolate is
chopped and weighed before using. I like to use Valrhona
56% cacao chocolate (available from specialty and cake decorating stores). Instead
of chopping the chocolate yourself, you can also purchase
pure chocolate
wafers, weigh and use as is -- they look like
large chocolate chips. They are available at any outlet that sells good,
pure chocolate. Don't confuse them with
courverture or compound chocolate.
2. Place
chopped chocolate in a large and
wide, heatproof bowl; you don't want to use a deep one because it will take
longer for the chocolate to melt. If I am making whipped ganache, I place mine
in my stand-mixer bowl. This way I can melt the chocolate and then whip it,
using only one bowl.
I
like to use equal parts of cream and chocolate for my
ganache. If you want something a little chewier, remove 1/4 cup of the cream
out and substitute with 1/4 cup vegetable oil. That will make it a little
glossier and a little chewier. You can also experiment and find a texture
that's to your liking. |
*Boil
is defined as heating liquid until bubbles break on the surface of the
liquid.
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3. In a large,
deep, heavy bottomed pan, on medium-low heat, bring heavy cream to a boil*. Turn
down the heat and let the cream continue with a slow boil for a full minute.
Stir often, making sure the cream does not burn and you don't want the cream to
foam and reach the top of the pan. The Founder of La Maison du Chocolat in
Paris, boils the cream three times -- he believes that makes the ganache last
longer. I have never tried it; if you do, compensate for the extra evaporation
by starting with a little more cream.
4. Immediately take the cream from the
heat and pour all over the chopped chocolate all at once. (Pour through a
strainer when using the crème fraiche or sour cream.) Never add cold liquids to
the chocolate as it will seize and
lump. The cream must cover all of it and will melt the chocolate. Briefly mash
the large pieces down into the cream with a wire whisk. DO NOT STIR. The mixture
should sit for at least 2 to 4 minutes (or more) until the chocolate starts to
melt.
5. When the chocolate has somewhat
melted, stir the ingredients together with a heatproof rubber spatula. Begin
stirring in the center in concentric circles, and gradually widen it towards the
edges of the bowl to pull in more chocolate. You do not want to whip air into
it, but you want to mix it thoroughly until combined. If you can't get all of
the chocolate to melt, keep stirring from the center out. If you use an
immersion blender, it must be fully submergered. Don't overwork the chocolate
mixture beyond combining, as it can curdle and turn into a gray, grainy
mess. And, avoid incorporating air bubbles into the mixture. If you do, strain
through a fine mesh strainer when done.
6. When mixed, you should end up with a
smooth, glossy liquid called ganache. At this point, add in
liqueurs and other liquid flavorings, all at
room temperature, and gently stir to incorporate.
7. Ganche can be
left as is and poured, cooled and thickened, piped, or whipped.
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PROBLEMS
AND SOLUTIONS: Ganache can be
temperamental because it is an emulsion:
Bakers ask me a lot of questions on
how to solve problems with their broken, greasy and problematic ganache
mixtures. To solve their problems, since ganache is an emulsion, I did
some research on emulsions and what brings them together and breaks them
apart. |
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Type |
Problem |
Solution |
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Classic Ganache |
Curdles |
Ingredients overmixed:
Gently mix in a couple of tablespoons of hot cream, keeping
the whisk submerged so as not to add air. Then, strain. |
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Becomes grainy |
Overmixed/Overagitated:
Steady, gentle mixing (agitation) is
essential in reducing the fat to tiny droplets.
Aggressive mixing causes graininess. Strain and re-stir if necessary. If
it does not work, toss and start again. |
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Hardens after making, sitting and/or
refrigerating |
Poured Ganache: If it becomes too hard, place bowl over a pan
of hot water and lightly stir until just reheated--don't whip because you
don't want to whip the cream. Whipped Ganache:
Try and beat a second time. If too cold, it will be too stiff, so rewarm.
Place in a bowl of hot water or place back over a simmering pot of water
for just a few minutes until the bowl has warmed. Remove from heat. Stir
ganache until melted. Beat. |
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Separates |
Temperature of
ingredients not compatible: High
and low temperatures can break an emulsion. The emulsion of ganache starts
when you start stirring the melted chocolate and cream together. If the
mixture is too hot (above 110 degrees F) when you start mixing, you''ll
start to see the fat molecules sitting on top of the mixture, an
indication that the fat is starting to separate out of the mixture. In
that case,
slowly add a small amount of cold cream to the ganache and stir gently.
This will recrystallize the chocolate's fat molecules and bring the
mixture back together. If the mixture is too cold, and hard to mix, gently
warm the mixture on top of a double boiler, until it is easier to stir. |
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Gets Dull and Cracks |
Temperature of dessert not
compatible: Many times ganache will dull from
refrigeration; to make it shiny again, after refrigeration, use a hair
dryer on low making sure you do not keep it pointed on one place otherwise
you will melt the ganache glaze. I also find adding a little corn syrup or
even butter to the ganache also helps to keep it shiny. |
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Bubbles |
Overwhipped: Strain
mixture through a fine mesh strainer. You may have to do it several times.
Stirring with a spatula or spoon creates tiny air bubbles bubbles. We use
a small burr mixer (otherwise known as a hand or
immersion blender). Make sure the blender head stays under the surface of
the glaze while blending. |
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Does not firm |
Cream was not boiled:
Bring cream to a boil for a minute or more. It reduces the water content
in the cream and breaks up the protein strands. Emulsified sauces combine
better when the amount of water is reduced. |
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Glaze |
Bubbles |
Overwhipped
or using a spoon or spatula: Stirring with a spatula or spoon creates tiny
air bubbles. Use a small burr mixer (otherwise known as a hand or
immersion blender). Make sure the blender head stays under the surface of
the glaze while blending. |
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Truffles |
Coating cracks |
Centers are too cold:
The coating on truffles will crack when it
sets if cold centers are dipped into the warm tempered chocolate or any
other coating. Allow the dipped truffles to sit at room temperature until
the temperature of the centers has stabilized (about two hours) to dip
them again. They should show no cracking after the second dipping. |
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~DIFFERENT TYPES OF GANACHE CAN BE MADE~ |
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TYPE: |
HOW TO: |
NOTES: |
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HOW TO GLAZE -
Ganache can be poured like a glaze on cakes, that sets with a beautiful
shine and smoothness, and also seals in freshness. -- you can tell if a cake
has been glazed with it because it has a glossy and smooth chocolate
surface.
To make: I always double the recipe in case I need extra.
4 cups is enough to glaze an 8-inch cake. For pouring, the ganache mixture
should be approximately 86 to 91 degrees F measured with an Instant
Read Thermometer (Stir the mixture before inserting the tip of the
thermometer in the center of the mixture) or feel just slightly warm -- it
must remain pourable -- it should look and pour like corn syrup in order to
glaze the cake or a frozen
dessert. If ganaching a chilled mousse, it should be chilled thoroughly so
the ganache will set quickly and not melt it.
If the ganache is too hot, press a piece of plastic wrap
on the top of the ganache so a film does not form and allow it to sit at a
cool, room temperature until just thickened, about 15 minutes, or so. Be
careful so it does not cool too much. |
Butter cakes
are better glazed with a denser ganache (equal weights chocolate and
cream). |
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When ganache cools in a bowl or pan
right after being made, it becomes thick and malleable like fudge, perfect
for making truffle centers with. Cover
warm ganache mixture with a piece of plastic wrap pressed on the top of the
ganache so a film does not form. Allow it to sit at a cool, room temperature
until just thickened, about 15 minutes, or so.
The truffle centers are made by
scooping out some and rolling them into small balls. They are then covered
with tempered chocolate to make a truffle. When eaten, the centers are
described as silky, smooth, light and creamy. |
Centers can be flavored with liqueurs, extracts and fruit
puree. |
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After mixing and before whipping or piping, the ganache needs
to cool and thicken. You want it to because it will whip faster and have a
better texture for piping.
This is done by setting it aside for an hour at a cool,
room temperature or until thick enough to be malleable like clay. Before you
do, cover with a piece of plastic wrap pressed on the top of the ganache so
a film does not form.
For quick cooling, place bowl in a larger bowl containing
ice and stir constantly until cool to the touch. Don't let it get too cold
because you shouldn't whip it if it does. To warm, in a warm place in
the kitchen to soften -- do not reheat.
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PIPED:
Make sure ganache thick enough to hold a shape. It is ready to be
piped. |
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 | WHIPPED:
Place lukewarm ganache in a mixing bowl and whip it vigorously by hand
or with an electric mixer on medium-high. Do this until mixture has
cooled, lightened in color and is fluffy. Do not overwhip, otherwise
it will become grainy. |
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 | FILLING AND
FROSTING: For frosting with a smooth velvety texture,
butter is often added. It has to be soft enough to cream with the
other ingredients, otherwise it won't whip. Butter that is too soft or
melted will result in a frosting that doesn't have a creamy texture.
To prepare it for mixing, let butter stand at room temperature until
softened but still cool. Add the butter in chunks until combined after
the melted chocolate and cream have formed an emulsion.
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Whipped ganache is perfect to use
as a filling for airy cakes such as a sponge
or genoise.
It can also be used for a
Ganache Mouss Recipe
topped with whipped cream
--- YUMMY !!
With added
butter and flavorings,
ganche can be used as a fluffy
frosting or cake
filling, as in the
American Chocolate Cake
Recipe. |
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Some center
mixtures when making truffles: |
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Ganache: Primarily used when
making truffles. It is a mixture of heavy cream and chocolate. It can be
flavored with liqueurs. |
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Gianduja: a
sweet chocolate or milk chocolate combined with hazelnut paste. It can be
bought ready-made, but may also be made by mixing chocolate, butter and
praline paste, which can be
homemade or store bought. |
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Nougatine:
Caramel mixed with sliced or chopped almonds. It
can be rolled out to a thin sheet on buttered marble, cut into shapes and
then dipped in tempered chocolate for a simple and crunchy confection. |
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Marzipan: It may be further flavored, formed
or cut into uniform shapes, then dipped in tempered chocolate. |
CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES:
Chocolate truffles are ganache in its simplest form. Truffle candies
imitate Perigord truffles covered with earth. The goal is to make them small so
they look like their namesakes, freshly dug from the earth.
Truffles are small balls of ganache, not
golf-ball or egg-sized, which become the centers -- silky smooth, light and
creamy -- and then are coated with tempered
chocolate, which gives it its crisp outside.
After truffles have been dipped in chocolate,
they must "set" one or two minutes before they can be optionally rolled in
cocoa powder,
powdered sugar or
chopped nuts or left as is and
optionally drizzled with tempered
chocolate over its top. But once the chocolate is firmly set, additional
decoration cannot be added unless you want to start over again by re-dipping in
chocolate.
Classic French-style truffles are usually small,
irregularly-shaped spheres of a dark chocolate ganache, dipped into melted dark
chocolate, then dusted with cocoa powder.
Make a batch of
"truffle" ganache.
After making, press a piece of plastic wrap on the
surface and place it in the refrigerator or let sit for an hour if the room is
cool. The plastic wrap prevents a skin from forming. After about 15 - 30
minutes, remove the chilled and firm ganache from the refrigerator.
Make sure the ganache is
very firm so it can be easily formed. Make the shapes no more than
3/4- to 1-inch wide in diameter or length and width because the ganache is so
rich. There are several ways to form truffle centers:
Finish truffle centers
by coating with tempered chocolate and optionally decorating. Make
sure it remains in the "temperate zone"
while using.
I
recommend that the ganache center be at room temperature before coating
with warm tempered chocolate. Otherwise the chocolate will stiffen in the
bowl from the cold and/or will crack when hardened. |
There are several ways to
cover a truffle:
 | Smear some chocolate on a gloved hand (use the
thin white gloves available from the grocery store). Gently rub each chilled
truffle center to coat lightly with chocolate; or, |
 | Drop the truffle center into the chocolate.
Move it around and flip it over to coat both sides with a chocolate dipping or
regular fork. Lift out and shake off excess by tapping the fork on the side of
the bowl. Another way is to use your chocolate hand, flip it over to coat both
sides then lift it out, tapping the back of your hand on the edge of the bowl
to remove the excess chocolate. |
There are several ways to
finish a covered truffle:
 | Flip the coated center onto a parchment paper
lined tray with your thumb and allow to set up in a cool part of the kitchen
for about an hour. |
 | Finish with a chocolate squiggle or dried
fruits and nuts before it sets. With left-over tempered chocolate, drizzle
designs on truffle with the tines of a fork or piped with a
parchment cone. Or,
you can bounce your chocolate-covered middle finger up and down over the top
of the candy until a string forms and “writing” with this string. This takes
practice, but eventually you will become good at it and will be able to mark
all of your candies. Dried fruit or a piece of a nut can be pressed into its
still-soft surface for a great finishing touch. |
 | After truffles have been enrobed in chocolate,
they must "set" one or two minutes before they can be optionally rolled into a
bowl of sifted cocoa powder
or other dry coverings, such as sifted
confectioner's sugar, chopped nuts
or praline powder. Roll the
center with a fork so it is covered all over. If working with your hands and
using cocoa or powdered sugar, dust them first to help prevent sticking. Work
quickly with your fingertips because the palms of your hands are warm and can
easily melt the chocolate covering or dissolve the ingredients that are dusted
on the outside. After dusting, place a few at a time in a large sieve or
strainer, and gently tap out excess coverings. |
Store
finished truffles in an airtight container, best kept in the refrigerator. If a truffle is filled with a cream-like center
that is perishable, it must be refrigerated. If frozen, truffles are good for a
month or so, depending on your freezer.
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