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Chocolate
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Introduction: Melting & Tempering |
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Chocolate
comes in the form of a large,
hard bar, one ounce squares or chocolate wafers, either as dark, white or milk
chocolate. When making chocolate confections and desserts, it is necessary to
either
melt
or
temper
it in a certain way depending upon
the type and recipe, which I show you how. When I discuss large amounts of
chocolate, I mean: about 1/3 pound and more or 5 or 6 chocolate squares.
Happy Baking,
Sarah
MELTING
is defined as using indirect heat to convert chocolate from a solid to a liquid,
such as done when melting butter. It is done when making recipes with a couple
of ounces of chocolate squares or when working with a 1 pound or so for
tempering.
If used in baking recipes, it then cooled
to tepid and blended in with the rest of the ingredients or cooled slightly to
used in a variety of simple
chocolate decorations.
Keep melted confections at room temperature. If
the storage area is warm, the freezer is a better place to store them than the
refrigerator.
TEMPERING
is a technique by which pure chocolate is stabilized
through a carefully controlled melting-and-cooling process,
allowing the cocoa butter molecules to
solidify in an orderly fashion and for the chocolate to harden properly.
Commercially available chocolate that you buy is already tempered, but this
condition changes the minute you melt it for your own use;
the molecules of fat separate (as cream separates
from milk). In order to put them back together, you must
temper it.
| QUESTION:
If white chocolate doesn't contain cocoa solids, and is
technically not considered to be chocolate, why does it need to be tempered?
ANSWER: White chocolate does contain
cocoa butter, and tempering has to do with cocoa butter crystals. |
Tempering
is important because it determines the final
gloss, hardness and contraction of chocolate.
At each step of the tempering process the temperature of the chocolate must be
precise and uniform: even tiny variations can ruin the result.
Tempering
isn't necessary for all recipes, but is done when the chocolate will be used for
candymaking, such as
molded chocolates or dipped centers,
as well as for more extensive
decorations,
such as sculpted ones or ribbons. Without tempering, the chocolate does
not harden properly as the cocoa butter separates out. If you do, the chocolate
is more malleable and glossy when it sets.
To store tempered chocolate confections, keep
them at room temperature. If they're tempered properly, they should be fine.
Don't put them in the fridge because they will "bloom"-- that's the cocoa butter
starting to separate out from the chocolate, and it forms a thin layer of cocoa
butter on the surface. They're totally fine to eat if they bloom, they just
don't look gorgeous. Fat absorbs heat at a different rate than the other
ingredients in chocolate, so it's unstable and floats to the surface, like cream
floats to the surface of milk.
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Type |
No Tempering Required |
Must Be Tempered |
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Chocolate with No Added Ingredients |
Also referred
to as pure chocolate, it contains cocoa
butter in its pure state, so must be tempered before using. When it is
used as part of a baking or candy recipe where other ingredients are
added, it need not be tempered. Examples are the
Chocolate Cake Recipe
or the Chocolate Ganache Recipe. Another
example is when making candy such as clusters or bark, where nuts and/or
chopped candy are included. Small designs do not require tempering, unless
you want a smooth gloss.
The Peanut Butter Chocolate Truffle Recipe doesn't either, however
some you'll often see tempering the chocolate coating as part of a
truffle-making step. |
It is recommended when making large
chocolate decorations or
molded chocolates.
Recipes such as the Chocolate
Truffle and the
Classic Chocolate
Dipped Strawberry Recipes use it. |
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Couverture |
For dipping, a good quality chocolate such as couverture (or "covering")
chocolate which contains at least 32% cocoa butter, will give you the best
smooth and glossy coating. It may be difficult for some to work with. |
Couverture has a high proportion of cocoa
butter and other fats, tempering is necessary to give the finished
chocolates a crisp and glossy finish. |
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Pure with Added Ingredients |
Tempered chocolate cannot be used for retempering if ingredients have been
added to it, such as oil or cream or has been used to dip fruits in, such
as strawberries; but it can be used for making
ganache or in
baking recipes. |
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Chocolate Chips |
When you buy the chips, they have already been mixed with other
ingredients, and are not pure. They can be simply melted.
The Chocolate Covered Pretzel Recipe is an easy way to coat
pretzels with chocolate. |
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Compound or Summer Coating |
Does not contain cocoa butter,
so does not need tempering |
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Candy
Melts |
To melt Candy
Melts‘, use a squeeze bottles or disposable decorating bags. Melt candy
melts in microwave on half power or defrost setting for one minute.
Squeeze bag or bottle to blend. Continue to heat at 20-second intervals on
half or defrost power until candy melts are completely melted. If using
the decorating bag, be sure to cut the tip prior to filling candy molds. |
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Chocolate and
Paraffin (Parawax or Cooking Wax)
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Parawax is the same thing as paraffin and can be found in the grocery
store, usually in the preserves section or the cake section. It is
inexpensive. Some older recipes for dipped candy call for
melting paraffin with chocolate to
make it firmer and give it a nice sheen upon cooling. The label on most
paraffin boxes state it is not for human consumption, but it is still
used. |
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BEFORE YOU
START MELTING OR TEMPERING CHOCOLATE: |
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GENERAL
TEMPERATURE GUIDELINES WHEN WORKING WITH CHOCOLATE: |
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Melting and tempering is done at
certain temperatures, as measured with a
Chocolate
Thermometer.
The lighter in color the chocolate, the more easily it burns.
Chocolate melts best at temperatures between 104
and 113 degrees F (40 and 45 degrees C). The process starts around the low
90s degrees F when the cocoa butter in it starts to heat. Melting
temperatures must never exceed 115 degrees F (milk and white) and 120
degrees F for dark, otherwise it will burn.
Sometimes the best temperature is printed on
the chocolate's label. But, for home baking, most recipes have you heat it
until "it melts". I find that it's best to melt chocolate until it
almost melts, then remove from the heat source and stir until all of it is
melted. This prevents the chocolate from burning. |
If you can master the art
of chocolate making, you can create some breathtaking
desserts
and I will show you how. Before starting,
make sure you have the time to pay undivided attention during the whole process
of melting or
tempering.
The key to successfully
melting or tempering chocolate is to do it gradually with indirect, very low
heat, while gently stirring until the chocolate is
almost melted. Remove
from the heat source and stir until it melts completely. It may take
awhile, but do not put it back on the heat source.
Make
sure no beads of moisture are allowed to mingle with the chocolate while melting
or it will become a grainy, lumpy mess called
seizing. If
this happens, you can try adding a little vegetable oil and heating the two
together for use in a recipe, but it doesn't always work. Once vegetable oil is
added it can no longer be
tempered.
Milk and white chocolate
are especially sensitive to heat, more than dark. White chocolate is the most
delicate to work with because it contains milk solids. The chocolate can
easily lump up if exposed to too much heat. They are really unmelted chocolate.
Most turn up the heat, which causes further problems.
Q:
How much should the melted chocolate cool before I fold in the beaten eggs?
A: Ideally, the chocolate
should be tepid. If the chocolate is too hot, the eggs curdle!
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What if your recipe calls
for melting chocolate along with water or some other type of liquid?
If fat, such as oil, clarified butter or vegetable shortening, or a liquid is to
be added to melted chocolate, it's best to add it with the chocolate before
heating, otherwise the chocolate will
seize.
This is can be done to make the chocolate thinner, as in the
Chocolate Dipped Strawberry Recipe.
If using melted chocolate in a
recipe, cool it first until tepid or 100 to 105 degrees F (slightly warmer than
body temperature, which is 98.6 degrees F).
Also, make sure any
ingredients are at room temperature before adding it to the chocolate or the
chocolate to it. The chocolate may
seize
if shocked by cold ingredients.
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Per capita, Americans eat an
average of 26.2 pounds of candy each year, split almost equally between
candy and chocolate. Chocolate is America's favorite flavor.
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If using melted chocolate for
molding or tempered chocolates, work quickly to use it. Properly tempered
chocolate will start to set up in 5 minutes, and if placed in the fridge will
turn hard in about 5 - 6 minutes if small.
Chocolate must be
properly stored because it is
sensitive to temperature changes. Always
wrap chocolate well and store in a cool, dark place away from odors. For more,
go to Chocolate Basics.
Never refrigerate it, unless it is hot and humid. If not properly stored
causing the chocolate to melt and resolidify during storage, you see a milky
"bloom" on the outside. If it does however, you can still use it in
baking recipes.
Chocolate
is as temperamental as it is wonderful.
The two most common problems of working with
chocolate are separating and
seizing. There
are steps to follow which ensure that neither separation nor seizing occur:
| Separation
happens when the cocoa butter separates
from the solids because it is heated too hot.
An indication is a gray film,
called bloom, that you will see on the outside of the hardened chocolate,
when cooled and there is no way to salvage it. Instead, use gentle
heat and don't forget to stir.
Seizing
is what happens when chocolate
clumps and becomes stiff and grainy from moisture being introduced or the
chocolate burns. You can
fix it sometimes, but then it
becomes unusable for anything except baking recipes. |
Steps to Ensure Successful Chocolate Melting or Tempering:
1. The work area should be
about 68 degrees F maximum. That's so the chocolate will set up properly; if too
warm, it won't. Also, work surfaces and equipment should be clean and dry.
Also, equipment used must be of the room
temperature. For more, go to
Chocolate Basics.
2. Use
top-quality chocolate.
It will really make a difference in your recipes.
I like to use dark bittersweet for both Valrhona for
tempering and enrobing and Callebaut for
ganache.
(Callebaut is a bit thicker than Valrhona). For baking recipes, I like
bittersweet Baker's or Hershey's chocolate squares, available from the grocery
store. But, find a chocolate you like and stick with it.
3.
Any type of chocolate is measured by weighing.
For accurate measuring, weigh chocolate
before and after
chopping.
If using 1-ounce baking chocolate squares, no need to weigh.
First weigh the container the ingredients will go into. Set
the "zero" indicator where the bowl's final weight is. Then, add the ingredients
to the bowl, and weigh again to get the chocolate's weight. In effect, you have
ignored the weight of the bowl and included the weight of the chocolate, which
is the proper way to do it. Weigh the amount you will need. Chop the chocolate,
and weigh before using to make sure you have enough.
If tempering chocolate, at a minimum use least 1
to 1-1/2 pounds of chocolate; any less will be apt to burn.
4. Optionally, chop
chocolate before melting.
No need to chop a few 1-ounce squares used for baking recipes, unless
the recipe states.
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Always make sure all dipping and stirring implements are moisture free as
any moisture and can cause the chocolate to
seize. Use a dry, heat-proof
rubber spatula -- it is preferred for stirring chocolate as opposed to a
wooden spoon, which usually contains moisture. |
However, when melting pieces cut from a large
bar, cut off a section and coarsely
chop with a sharp, serrated knife into
EVENLY sized 1/4-inch pieces. This is so the chocolate will melt pretty much at
the same time; you don't want some of the chocolate to burn while the other
pieces are still not melted.
To learn about how to chop chocolate,
click here.
I
do not recommend using a food processor for chopping chocolate because during
the process it can melt easily and make a big mess -- which I know from personal
experience! Chocolate can be grated and does so more easily if frozen first (not
refrigerated), but it also makes a huge mess. I like to use
microplane
for grating chocolate, as it works better.
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Chocolate's
temperature when tempering
must be accurately measured, so a
Mercury-Gauge Chocolate Thermometer is a must !
(Other recipes sometimes
call for it, as well). Because chocolate must be measured in 1-degree
increments, this type thermometer is important.
A chocolate thermometer is best used when
measuring large amounts of chocolate
(about 1/3 pound and more or 5 or 6 chocolate squares).
For small amounts of chocolate used in baking
recipes, there's no need to measure with a Chocolate Thermometer; just watch
carefully and remove from heat when just melted. Keep stirring until fully
melted.
A chocolate thermometer is available from
cookware stores. Only use a digital pocket
thermometer or an instant read dial thermometer if it comes with l-degree
increments. Do not use a candy (deep fat frying) thermometer because the
temperature gauge does not register finely and/or low enough.
To use a chocolate thermometer:
Always stir the chocolate vigorously for at least
1 minute before inserting the thermometer and continue to stir towards the
thermometer during the reading.
When using, do not let the tip of the
thermometer touch the bottom or sides of the bowl because this can give a
false reading. |
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TO
FIX SEIZED CHOCOLATE:
If chocolate "seizes",
immediately whisk in a little VEGETABLE OIL until it
becomes smooth again. (It sometimes works!) Once
seized, the chocolate can no longer be used for tempering because it is no
longer considered to be pure. It can be used in a recipe if it isn't
burned.
When melting chocolate for
a recipe, the
easiest way to avoid seizing is to melt 1 tablespoon of liquid from the
recipe with every two ounces of chocolate. |
Sometimes
chopped chocolate is melted by pouring hot liquids over it, such as heavy
cream. This is done when making
Chocolate Ganache. |
5.
Use a Chocolate Thermometer to help
you
keep track of its temperature
right after melting and during the chocolate's use.
Chocolate burns easily and must
be watched carefully and stirred while melting, tempering or reheating. Burned
or overheated chocolate is grainy and has a burned after taste. You can even see
and smell it. If chocolate burns, you have to discard it as it can no longer be
used.
THERE ARE DIFFERENT WAYS TO MELT
CHOCOLATE:
Never place chocolate directly in a pan over heat.
Because of the sensitivity of milk solids to heat, chocolate is best melted in a
double boiler,
in the oven or if you have small amounts, in the microwave. White chocolate will
burn more easily than bittersweet or dark chocolate.
1.
Melt chocolate is in
a
double boiler,
or one you
fashion
yourself.
Melting chocolate in a double
boiler applies to all chocolate in both small and large amounts. It is a two
part pan, with one stacked on the other. You can also
make your
own.
Fill the saucepan on the bottom with an inch or
two of water and let it boil. Turn off the heat and remove. Wipe off the top if
the pot. Because chocolate is moisture adverse, you want condensation, stem and
splashes to be minimized to prevent it from
seizing. Water will separate the chocolate
and can ruin the batch.
MELTING MILK AND
DARK CHOCOLATE WITH OTHER INGREDIENTS: You can melt chocolate and
other liquids together, such as water, but there are some rules. You can't
melt a large amount of chocolate with a small amount of butter or cream -
you need to have the right proportions to prevent the chocolate from
seizing. The rule of thumb is, the minimum is: 1
tablespoon water-type liquid for every 2 ounces of chocolate.
4 tablespoons of butter = 1 tablespoon of water (butter is about 18% water)
4 tablespoons liqueur = 1 tablespoon water
5 large egg yolks = 3 tablespoons water
4 tablespoons cream = 3 tablespoons water
Shortening is 100% fat and does not contain water, so you don't need to be
concerned about the chocolate to water ratio when you use shortening!
(So, you can melt chocolate and water together, if you keep the above
ratio!) |
Chopped chocolate
is placed in the top portion, placed over the bottom part and stirred
constantly. The chocolate melts from the indirect heat coming from the steam
below. Make sure the water below doesn't not touch the bottom of the top pan
because its considered direct heat if you do. Melt chocolate uncovered as
moisture can condense on the lid, fall back into the chocolate causing it to
seize.
Some bakers place the chocolate over barely
simmering water, which I recommend if you are experienced. It is done by heating
the water almost to boiling and then lowering the heat so it simmers. The bottom
portion's rim is wiped off. The top portion with the chocolate is placed on top.
Others turn off the simmering water half-way through melting, and continue to
stir until melted. But, I prefer to heat the water in advance so you don't run
the risk of scorching the chocolate or have it
seize.
If
you don't have a double boiler, you can fashion one yourself. Take a
heat-proof glass or an aluminum mixing bowl. This becomes the top part of a
double-boiler, that is set over a short, straight-sided, wide saucepan, which is
the bottom part.
For the top part of the double boiler, use a
fairly big wide bowl, not a small deep one -- you want as much of the surface of
the chopped chocolate
to be exposed to the steam from the hot water below and melt at the same
time. You can also stir it more easily and vigorously that way.
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TO MELT
CHOCOLATE WITH PARAFFIN:
Some recipes call for adding paraffin wax so the chocolate hardens with a
sheen. It is perfect when working with small amounts of chocolate, such as
dipping cookies
or fruit. However, paraffin is not necessary for successful dipping and you
may not like its flavor. If you are using top-quality chocolate, it already
has everything in it that you need.
Paraffin is found in the grocery
store. NOTE
- Do not leave the melting wax unattended or use high heat when melting
because it is highly flammable.
WARNING:
Melt the chocolate and the wax, but do NOT try to melt the
chocolate and wax together (unless using
chocolate chips), as it will not
work.
1.
Melt
the chocolate. Remove from heat.
2. Melt the wax in
an uncovered pot over very low heat. It
doesn't take that long, so watch carefully. Remove from heat.
3. When both the chocolate
and the wax are still molten, but cooled slightly, pour the wax into the
chocolate slowly, stirring constantly.
Stand back while doing so or don't look into the
pot directly; you don't want either to splash and hit you -- both are VERY
HOT.
TO MELT CHOCOLATE CHIPS WITH PARAFFIN - can
melt together: I use 1/4 bar (1-ounce)
paraffin wax per 1 (12-ounce) package of semisweet chocolate chips. I use
this also when making Christmas candies. Just melt it with the
chocolate in the top of a double boiler over hot water.
A cookie dipping example:
To dip
Spritz cookies, hold a cooled cookie
at an angle - from corner to opposite corner - and dip into the melted
chocolate/wax mixture. Set aside on a wax paper covered cookie sheet. When
all dipping is completed put the dipped cookies in the refrigerator for
about 30 minutes to quickly harden the chocolate. |
Be certain that about half of the bowl can be
inserted into the saucepan. You want it to cover the entire top of the pan so
moisture can't get out from condensation from the water below and cause
seizing.
When the chocolate is almost melted, immediately
remove the top portion, dry off the bottom and sides and set aside. Don't
pour out the hot water just yet. Stir the chocolate vigorously with a heat-proof
spatula so all the chocolate melts; it may take a bit but all of it will
eventually melt. If it isn't working, set the chocolate over the hot water again
and let more melt.
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If you want melted chocolate to pour over something cold,
like ice cream, do the following: after melting and while still warm, add 1
tablespoon vegetable oil, like canola oil. Stir vigorously until combined.
The chocolate won't turn hard right away when it hits the cold. |
2.
The no water technique -- melting
chocolate in an oven as inspired by my mom.
Place chopped chocolate in a heat-proof bowl and
place it in an oven set at 110 degrees F (if your oven doesn't go that low, use
the lowest temperature and keep the door ajar). Your chocolate will melt in
about an hour.
Another way is to melt a few chocolate squares
while your oven preheats, but watch it very carefully. Place in a heat-proof
bowl or in a piece of aluminum foil with formed raised sides (so the chocolate
won’t run off the foil) on the middle shelf. It will take 5 to 10 minutes for
them to melt. Remove when almost melted (it will still
retain its shape and look shiny) and stir until all of it is.
3. Chocolate
can be melted in a microwave oven which
is best for small amounts, only. Because milk
and white chocolate contain milk proteins, they can overheat quickly and become
grainy. They need to be removed from the microwave and stirred sooner than dark
chocolate.
Place one ounce of more of finely chopped
chocolate or chocolate chips in a microwave-safe bowl. When it is about 85 %
done, take it out and stir and the rest of the chocolate will melt.
To do:
Microwave on medium (50 percent) checking every 10 - 15 seconds. Chocolate holds
its form and looks shiny (it won't look melted), so stir several times to check.
Let it stand for thirty seconds with the microwave turned off. Remove the
container and stir the chocolate until completely melted.
From
Hershey's Chocolate:
| Product |
Amount |
Temp
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Time
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Procedure |
Additional
Time |
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HERSHEY'S Unsweetened or Semi-Sweet Baking
Chocolate (4 oz.) |
4 bars |
High
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1 Min. |
Stir until melted |
Check at 30 second intervals as needed |
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HERSHEY'S Butterscotch Chips, Cinnamon
Chips, Premier White Chips, Raspberry Chips, MINI KISSES Semi-Sweet or
Milk Chocolate Baking Pieces |
1-2/3 cups (10-oz. Pkg.) |
High
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1 Min. |
Stir until melted |
Check at 15 second intervals as needed |
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|
REESE'S Peanut Butter Chips HERSHEY'S Milk
Chocolate Chips |
2 cups (11.5-oz. Pkg.) |
High
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1 Min. |
Stir until melted |
Check at 15 second intervals as needed |
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HERSHEY'S Semi-Sweet Chocolate Chips, OR
MINI CHIPS Semi-Sweet Chocolate |
2 cups (12-oz. Pkg.) |
High
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1-1/2 Min.
|
Stir until melted |
Check at 15 second intervals as needed |
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HERSHEY'S Classic Caramels |
60 pieces |
High
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1 Min.
|
Stir until melted |
Check at 30 second intervals as needed |
6. You're now ready to use
the melted chocolate to create
confections
or decorations. Check the
temperature one more time and remember to stir before doing so! If you used dark
chocolate, the temperature should be between 85 and 90 degrees. If you used
white or milk chocolate it should be around 85 or 86 degrees.
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