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Using a
waterbath in baking, cooking or warming recipes
consists of placing a container (for example, a pan, bowl, ramekins or
soufflé dish) of a recipe or food in a large, shallow pan of warm water either
in an oven or on a
stovetop. The water surrounds and protects delicate foods from direct
heat, allowing it to be prepared "low and slow".
The French call this cooking technique au bain
marie (bahn mah-ree).
The name originated in the 14th century, when it denoted a utensil first used in
alchemy. Of course, the name also referred to the Virgin Mary, a symbol of
gentleness -- because the term implies a gentle method of cooking.
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HOW DOES A WATERBATH
WORK? Water is perfect to
use to surround a delicate recipe during cooking or baking. It has a very
high "specific heat" so it can absorb a lot of energy without changing its
temperature. For example, when
the oven is at 325 degrees F, a typical temperature for a cheesecake recipe,
the filled pan is insulated; the water that surrounds it, never goes
over the temperature of the hot water or 212 degrees F. Because water
surrounds the recipe, it also bakes with even, moist heat. |
An
oven or on a stovetop waterbath is
typically used with delicate foods and egg-based desserts, such as
custards or
cheesecakes and egg-based
sauces, that would curdle, break, crack or scorch under too much heat. The lower
temperature prevents the egg proteins in the recipe from toughening when exposed
to high temperatures. It also helps to prevent overcooking them which causes the
egg proteins to overcoagulate and shrink when cooled, the classic cause of
cracking in recipes! A waterbath
also prevents crust formation on a custard or other egg-based dessert. With it,
you also get a cheesecake recipe that is creamy almost custard-like, moist and
rich.
A
stovetop waterbath
is used when melting or tempering
chocolate
because it can burn easily from direct heat.
Stirred custards
are cooked in a waterbath on a stovetop, as well as delicate and egg based
sauces or when heating egg whites or yolks.
NOTE: If
there is some sort of starch in an egg based recipe, such as flour or
cornstarch, you need not use a waterbath at all. However, some cheesecake bakers
elect to use one all the time, doing no harm and providing gentle heat for a
more creamy texture and a lighter color on top.
To
prepare an oven waterbath:
used for baking
cheesecakes, as well as other
custard-based desserts, soufflés, pate or
terrine.
- Set the oven shelf to the middle rung.
Preheat the oven. Boil water for the waterbath or make sure you have plenty of
hot tap water on hand.
- You will need two pans: one that holds the
recipe and the other, a larger one. The larger one should be about 2- to
3-inches wider on all sides than the recipe's pan and at least as high as the
sides of the inner mold or pan; the outer pan will be filled with water that
reaches about 1/2 way up the sides of the filled pan. When I bake a 9-inch
cheesecake, I place it in a 12-inch round cake pan with 2- to 3-inch sides. If
you don't have an outer pan big enough to hold the inner pan, use a disposable
foil roasting pan. Set molds or pan in the larger pan as they are filled,
leaving about 1 inch around each mold so hot water can circulate.
The water should not boil around the baking pan. If it does
during baking, remove some hot water with a ladle and replace with a few ice
cubes.
- If using a springform pan to
bake the cheesecake in it will leak if placed in a waterbath. So, make a criss-cross
of three or four pieces of foil, preferably heavy-duty, with the pan centered
in the middle before filling. Bring the foil up around all of the sides to
seal it and then fill the pan. But, I have found that the outside foil wrap
leaks frequently letting water into the springform pan, ruining the recipe.
Thus, I prefer to bake my cheesecakes in a
regular cake pan where you do
not need the foil because it is one piece, eliminating the seepage of water.
- Pull out the middle
shelf of the oven slightly, and place the larger pan on it. I like to
put a kitchen towel right down in the bottom of the larger pan, but make sure
the outer pan is high enough to accommodate both the towel and the water. The
towel also prevents water from splashing in the recipe when it is poured in
and hits the bottom and sides of the larger pan, plus adds some extra
insulation for the cheesecake's bottom.
- Place
the cheesecake pan into the larger pan and make sure its flat.
Now the cheesecake goes in the middle of that but push
it over to one side just for now.
- Carefully pour
the hottest tap water or boiling water from a kettle into the outer pan. Fill
the outer pan about 1/2 way up the sides of filled pan.
Some recipes call for adding enough water to come about two thirds up the side
of the cheesecake. Either way is fine. You don't have to go any higher than
that or near the top rim of the cheesecake pan or you'll just steam the cake,
which tastes horrible. You also don't want to get water or steam splashed into
the cheesecake while it bakes. To prevent a skin from forming on any
smooth custard, cover the mold or ramekins with foil.
- Carefully push the
cheesecake pan to the middle and put the shelf back into the oven for baking.
Replenish the water when necessary during baking ONLY if you have to.
It's best to leave the cheesecake to bake without disturbing it.
- The important thing to
remember is to remove the cheesecake IMMEDIATELY from the waterbath when done
otherwise it will overbake. It will continue to bake even if the oven is
turned off. Pull out the rack and gently pick up the cheesecake pan out
of the water. You can remove the waterbath from the oven, but I prefer to let
it cool down inside of the now turned off oven. It isn't easy to walk with a
hot pan of water to the sink without dumping it down your leg. I have had that
pleasure and it isn't a memorable experience.
- To cool, and place the
cheesecake on a cooling rack in a warm part of the kitchen. Handle gently
as it is still quite delicate -- if you tip it or cool it at an angle, you
will get a crooked cake. I like to set my cheesecake on top of a burner of the
stove, because it is warm there from the heat that still radiates from the
turned off oven. There it won't be subject to temperature shifts which can
cause a cheessecake to crack. Don't not turn on any burners or operate the
oven while the cheesecake is cooling.
- Let cheesecake pan
cool completely. It is important to refrigerate it overnight before serving so
it can firm up.
To prepare a
stovetop waterbath: Used for
melting or
tempering chocolate, custards and other egg-based desserts.
Ramekins or tall, cylindrical pans or canisters
are placed in a pan of simmering water. I often lay a folded towel on the bottom
of the larger pan to keep multiple pans from rattling around, and to provide
added insulation from the heat.
MAKE
YOUR OWN DOUBLE-BOILER: If you don't
own a set of double-boiler pans, improvise one by nesting a heat-proof glass
or metal bowl on top of a saucepan.
Glass holds the heat better than a metal one,
which conducts the heat faster.
For the top part, use a fairly big wide bowl,
not a small deep one -- for instance, if you are
melting chocolate, the larger
surface area helps it to melt at the same time, preventing it from burning
from some being melted and some not.
Be certain that about half of the bowl can be
inserted into the saucepan. Most importantly, make sure the water doesn't
not touch the bottom of the bowl or top pan. This is especially important
because melting chocolate or
custard could scorch from the direct
heat of the hot water.
You want it to cover the entire top of the
pan so steam escaping from boiling water can't get out during simmering and
cause seizing when
melting chocolate.
Be careful when removing either bowl; they
get very hot. |
A Double Boiler:
In a double boiler,
the food is in a bowl suspended above a pan with and inch or so of simmering or
already boiled water. It is used for food that needs gentle cooking and
simultaneous whisking, stirring, or blending with other ingredients, such as
melting or tempering chocolate or
making stirred custards.
It can also be used to
keep cooked foods warm without continuing to cook them.
A double boiler consists of two pans that fit
together snugly--the top pan holds the food; the bottom holds about an inch of
PREVIOUSLY boiled or simmering water; don't let the water boil while using
it. You can make your own or buy one from the grocery or specialty kitchenware
store.
It is very important that the hot water in the
lower half of the double boiler never touches the pan above. If it does, you
defeat the purpose of a double boiler; the hot water is considered to be direct,
hot heat. Instead, you need a cushion of hot air between the water and the food.
This helps to keep the temperature constant and the food from overheating or
burning.
| More tips when using a
waterbath or double boiler:
When using a top bowl on a double boiler, it
gets very hot, so use hot mitts whenever holding or touching.
If your recipe starts
to curdle or the melting chocolate threatens to scorch, turn down the heat
and simply lift off the top pan (or bowl, using a pot holder) for a minute
before continuing. If melting chocolate, lift the top
pan or bowl away from the water and dry off its bottom.
Water introduced into melting chocolate causes
seizing.
The amount of water in the lower part of the
double boiler has to be watched. It can quickly evaporate, even if kept at a
simmer, and burn both the bottom of the pan and the recipe. |
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