Copyright © 2000 Sarah Phillips Sarah Phillips, Inc. All rights reserved.
STOVETOP (STIRRED) CUSTARDS
Stirred custards have their ingredients heated to a certain temperature, such as 170 degrees F (77 degrees C) when done, as measured with an Instant Read Thermometer. (FYI: boiling occurs at 212 degrees F). When it's done, it is important to remove the stirred custard from the heat immediately to stop the cooking. Some recipes have you place the bottom of the pot in ice water to quicken the process.
Classic custard made on the stove top without starch is Crème Anglaise, but also includes zabaione that will be eaten as is or become a pie filling in a prebaked crust. They require the use of a double boiler and constant stirring.
BASIC STEPS:
1. Heat the cream or cream and milk in a medium saucepan over medium heat until scalded (you'll see small bubbles on the sides of the pan). Split the vanilla bean in half, if using, and scrape the seeds into the cream;
2. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, slowly whisk the sugar into the egg yolks and eggs;
3. Slowly temper the hot cream/milk into the sugar/yolk mixture;
4. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve into a pitcher or measuring cup to remove any tell-tale signs of small, cooked egg white lumps;
5. Stir in the salt and vanilla extract or flavorings after straining.
6. Refrigerate
When refrigerating just cooked or baked custard, let it cool about 5 - 10 minutes and then cover it with plastic wrap. Make sure it touches the surface of the custard to prevent the milk proteins from forming a thin crust on top when refrigerated. Pierce a piece of plastic wrap large enough to cover the custard in about a dozen places with the tip of a sharp knife or a toothpick; place pierced plastic wrap directly onto surface and refrigerate to set.
When any custard is made on the stove top, it must be cooked slowly, taking at least 10 minutes. Although some cooks like to cook the mixture in a double boiler over hot water, a heavy saucepan over low heat works as well. Don’t try to hurry the process by turning up the heat.
Stir continuously with a wooden spoon. It’s fine to have a pan of cold water on hand to plunge the bottom of the pot into to stop cooking, but that only works if you catch it just on the brink of separating. You really have to keep a close eye on it while cooking.
For stirred custards without starch, once you've mixed together the hot milk and beaten eggs, it’s all too easy to overheat the mixture. To avoid this, cook the custard in a double boiler (with the bowl not touching the water), much like you would do to melt chocolate. This produces a gentler heat and reduces chances of splitting.
It is easy to think that to make your custard thicker that you should cook longer. Not true! Remember, it thickens on cooling, and English custard (as opposed to French, which is thick) should be pouring consistency, somewhere between single and double cream.
Unless you are making a meringue topping. In that case, heat the filling immediately before pouring it into the pie shell and topping with the meringue. Do not allow the filling to cool down before the meringue has been spread or the pie may weep because the cool filling prevents the meringue from sealing to the filling, causing problems.
Cream Pies: Some fillings in pies are simple egg custards thickened with cornstarch. Whole eggs as well as egg yolks are used to add body and richness to the filling.
Some tips when cooking:
1. Whisk constantly Use a wire whisk to stir the cornstarch, sugar and water mixture while it cooks to keep lumps from forming.
2. Pour slowly: When adding the hot cornstarch mixture to the egg yolks, place the bowl on a damp towel to keep it stable while you whisk. Spoon in the hot mixture slowly. Eggs need time to adjust to heat; they curdle if they're exposed to heat too quickly.
3. Cook thoroughly: Once the eggs are added to the filling, they must be cooked thoroughly. This not only kills bacteria but also ensures the eggs will not break down the cornstarch and cause the filling to be runny.
4. Cool slightly: If cooking a pie filling (like a pastry cream or pudding) over the stovetop be sure that you let it cool slightly before pouring it into your cooled, pre-baked pie shell. A hot mixture added to a cool crust is likely to create a soggy bottom crust, while a completely cooled filling just won't adhere to the layer below it. A warm filling is ideal.
5. Strain before using: Take the filling, and strain it through a fine sieve into a pitcher or measuring cup to remove any tell-tale signs of small, cooked egg white lumps.
Pastry Cream: When making pastry cream, the following tips help:
1. Temper the egg mixture with the hot milk by carefully pouring about half of the cream or milk into the egg and sugar mixture.
2. Immediately whisk to prevent the eggs from scrambling.
3. Pour the tempered egg mixture into the saucepan and continue to whisk, remembering to whisk into the edge of the saucepan where the pastry cream can stick and burn.
SARAH SAYS: To make fruit flavored pastry cream, add the fruit or jam AFTER making the cream. After chilling the pastry cream simply fold in fruit that is chopped or sliced and drained of excess liquid. If it is too wet you will thin down the pastry cream and it won't have the same consistency. If you want to add jam, simply fold it in.
