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Pie & Tart Crust Basics

Page 1

ALL ABOUT INGREDIENTS
This Page: Flaky & Sweet Crust Basics
#1: Measure & Prepare the Ingredients #2:  Add the fat #3: Sprinkle the ice water
#4:  Form disk & chill #5:  Roll Mixing Problems Rolling Problems
Page 2: Flaky & Sweet Crust Basics
#6: Transfer  dough to pan #7: Finishing  touches #8: Blind-bake or use #9: Fill & bake or store / Pie crust problems & solutions
Page 3: Flaky & Sweet Crust Basics
Pie Dough Ingredients

 

Flute & Decorate Lattice Tops
Page 4: Flaky & Sweet Crust Basics 
Crumb Crusts Cookie Crusts Puff Pastry & Phyllo  Pie Dough Recipes

BEFORE YOU START - When making a pie crust, ALWAYS THINK COLD for a flaky crust. The ingredients must be cold to start with and stay cold. WHY?

Basics #1:

MEASURE & PREPARE THE INGREDIENTS: Use the flour called for in the recipe and measure accurately. Make sure the fat and any liquids used are as well, plus are well-chilled and prepared for use. 

Measure flour and any dry ingredients greater than 1/4 cup with the spoon and sweep method and liquid ingredients with a liquid measuring cup. Measure small amounts, such as baking powder with measuring spoons. Blend the flour, salt and optionally baking powder, sugar and any other dry ingredients in a medium bowl.  In addition, some bakers, who live in hot and humid climates, freeze the flour (without the other dry ingredients blended in) for 15 to 20 minutes right before using. Set aside while preparing the fat and ice water.

If your butter is frozen, do not thaw it. Instead, grate it into a bowl or piece of waxed paper. Simply place back in the freezer until firm again. It's then ready to use. 

To prevent your fingers from getting nicked when grating, cover two or three of them with metal thimbles. You'll be able to grate much faster and closer.

Start with chilled or frozen butter (frozen is better). Measure and cut the butter into small, evenly-sized 1/4-inch cubes. This makes it a perfect size when later blending it into the flour and dry ingredients. (Step #2) I then return the fat to the freezer to chill again while preparing the other ingredients.

In the meantime, the water or any other liquid used should be icy cold water, not right from the tap. To prepare, simply put some ice in a small glass and add water to it. Let it sit until very cold and then measure -- just dip the measuring spoon into the water, making sure there aren't any ice cubes in it. 

If using eggs, take them directly from the fridge, and beat them into the measured water. Do the same with the vinegar. Return to fridge until ready to use to keep cold.

Basics #2:

ADD THE FAT TO THE FLOUR / DRY INGREDIENTS AND CUT-IN: Before cutting in the fat with the flour and dry ingredients, make sure it and any water or liquids (such as eggs, vinegar, etc.) are well chilled. Cut the fat in until your mixture resembles small peas. The  more you incorporate the fat past that point, the less flaky your crust will be. Food Processor: Fitted with a metal blade, quickly pulse the dry ingredients 3 times, at 1 second intervals, to combine them. 

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Go With Pea-Sized Fat for Pies: When solid fat (lard, hydrogenated shortening, butter or margarine) is cut into pastry, it results in relatively large pieces of fat. For size reference, we refer to these pieces of fat as being the size of peas. When these fat pieces melt into pools, they give layers for flakiness. If the fat is cut into smaller crumb-sized particles, the pastry will be less flaky but more tender and mealy. In a food science class, stacked pastry strips are used to compare these two methods. The greater height of the strips with fat cut into pea-sized pieces indicates that pastry is more flaky than the one with crumb-sized fat pieces. From Iowa State University.

When the fat and flour are mixed properly, the mixture should be slightly yellow (if using butter or margarine). It should have pea or the same size pea sized-like pieces of fat well distributed throughout; it should not be mealy or floury.  

You can mix together the fat and the flour, and other dry ingredients, in a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Mix on low and be careful not to over process. Scrape down and continue to mix until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs, with no large pieces of fat visible. 

A dough made with inadequately distributed fat is more problematic than one that is over-mixed -- it will be difficult to roll out; the butter will stick to the rolling pin, the butter chunks will melt and the dough may tear. Or, dough made with overworked fat will be heavy and sodden after baking.

To accomplish this step, first add the prepared fat from Step # 1, to the flour mixture by sprinkling the pieces evenly around the bowl.  If at any time the fat gets too warm and soft, cover entire mixture with plastic wrap and place in refrigerator until chilled. Resume, again. 

Then, you can cut in the fat in several ways: 

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By hand: pick-up a small piece of fat and some flour with your fingertips in both hands. You don't want to use the palm of your hand because it is very warm and will melt the fat. Quickly work the fat into the flour by rubbing small pieces of the butter and flour in between your fingers and thumb. Then let it drop back into bowl and start again with another piece of fat and flour mixture. Continuously pinch and squeeze all of the butter into the dry ingredients. Reach into the bottom of the bowl with both hands from time to time and redistribute the ingredients. 

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Using two table knives: with the blades almost touching each other, move knives back and forth in opposite directions in a parallel cutting motion. 

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With a pastry blender: work up and down  in the mixture, rolling on either side of its edge.  

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Food processor: Use the metal blade and add the chilled fat pieces to the work bowl containing the flour and any other dry ingredients. Quickly pulse it one-second at a time, up to15 times, to combine the dry ingredients with the fat, until crumbly. The fat pieces should be barely visible. When the mixture is properly mixed, it will be slightly yellow, mealy in texture rather than floury, and it will ride up the sides of the bowl. At this point transfer the mixture to a separate bowl for the next step, when water is added; the risk of overprocesing is high if water is not added by hand.

Basics #3:

SPRINKLE THE ICE WATER OVER THE FLOUR / FAT MIXTURE: The goal is to mix in the bare minimum or water and other liquids, with the flour and butter mixture, so it still looks dry and just barely holds together when pinched together; you don't want a wet and sticky dough. Take care not to overwork the dough.

Change to a dough hook, mix on low speed and slowly add ice water. Use less water than the recipe calls for, if possible. Continue mixing until dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl.  Do not over work the dough as the it does not need to be completely  homogenous. Stop the mixer and do the pinch test to see if you have added enough liquids. If you have, move to the next step.

The amount of water necessary to bring a dough together can vary up to 50 percent depending upon how dry the flour is. 

If more water is needed, sprinkle one teaspoon at a time for a one-crust dough and one tablespoon at a time for a two-crust dough, gently tossing the ingredients together after each addition. If more flour is needed, do the same. DO NOT OVERMIX..

Make sure the butter or fat is still cold in the flour mixture before adding water or liquids. If not, cover and return to fridge or freezer until chilled. 

Likewise, any liquid ingredient, such as water, white wine vinegar or eggs should be very cold and mixed together before adding to the recipe. Use ice water, not cold water from the tap because it's colder.

Start by sprinkling the BARE MINIMUM of water or liquid mixture over the flour / butter mixture while tossing it gently with a fork;  the less used, the more tender the pie crust.  Constantly reach down into the bottom of the bowl with a fork to work in the liquids, being careful not squish or flatten the fat before deciding whether to add more water. 

Work quickly or the fat will become soft and sticky, leading to a flavorless tough crust when baked. If it happens, place it back in the refrigerator and for less time in the freezer until well-chilled. (I also put the liquids in the refrigerator to chill at the same time) Then, resume again. 

Pinch Test: Use the pinch test often to see if your dough has the right amount of liquid added to it. TO DO: Pick up a small clump and gently squeeze. Stop when the dough just sticks together with small dry cracks. After mixing, the perfect pie crust dough should look crumbly and dry; do not knead the dough to smooth. The next step is to gather and press the dough pieces into a disk and chill it.

Do not over do the liquids and the mixing; use the Pinch Test to determine whether or not you should stop. Gluten forms whenever wheat flour is moistened and stirred, with an excess resulting in a tough and not-so-flaky crust. These precautions mostly concern the flaky dough, with less importance to the sweet dough because of its high sugar content. If problems arise, see solutions below

Fraisage: After mixing pie dough, it should just cling together. At this stage, you can make a ball of dough, and chill it, or you can further layer together the fat and flour and increase flakiness by a technique known in French as fraisage. It is a way to blend the dough. This makes flat pieces of fat smeared in between the flour, which is optimal when making a very flaky crust. 

To do: break off a small lump of dough, put it under the heel of your hand on the counter, and push on the dough as you slide it forward about 4 inches. Scrape up and set aside that piece of dough and repeat with the remaining dough. Then gather the pieces of smeared dough into a disk, in the next step. 

Food Processor:  Scatter water over the flour mixture and pulse it 5 to 6 times at one second intervals. Don't allow the dough to start clumping together.  However, I don't recommend using a processor for this stage, as it is easy to overwork the dough. Finish mixing the dough by hand so it comes together.

DOUGH MIXING PROBLEMS:

DOUGH MIXING SOLUTIONS:

Flour & butter mixture becomes pasty and sticky

The butter is melting. If the ingredients are now yet mixed, force the dough to accept at least 3/4 of the liquid called for.  Stir it in a fork.  The dough will be very soft; leave as is. 

Large lumps in the dough

Press the dough into a rectangle about 3/8 inch thick.  Fold it in half onto itself a couple of times, and press down, to work in the fat particles; do not knead. If the lumps are really large, break the dough into chunks, and try to work in the large pieces of fat ONLY, in each chunk with fingertips. Then, form into a disc.

Ingredients are still dry

If your dough is too dry and  the pieces will not stick together, sprinkle drops of cold ice water on the crust ingredients. Mix them together quickly with a fork and press the dough together motion. 

Dough is very dry

Tear dough into particles.  Scatter drops of water on it.  Toss them in with a fork until the dough holds together. A dough made without enough water will be difficult to form into a disk (next step), and will tear and crumble when rolled out (Step#5).

Dough is very wet

Sprinkle 1 teaspoon of flour (1 tablespoon if a double crust pie) at a time on the ingredients and fold the dough onto itself three or four times. It should absorb the flour. 

Excerpted from Nick Malgieri, Perfect Pastry, Macmillan, NY, 1969

Basics #4:

FORM THE DOUGH INTO A DISK & CHILL: The disk (not a ball) should be at least 5 to 6-inches across and 1-inch high -- it should JUST hold together if a small piece is pressed between your index finger and thumb. It should also look dry and crumbly. Do not smooth it or add more water. It is perfect; wrap and chill it.  I have found that if I wrap the dough in waxed paper, the outside won't get sticky, as it does with plastic wrap.

For a 2-crust pie, I like to create two flat disks in two-third and one-third portions, even though many pie recipes call for splitting them into two equal ones. The larger amount will be the bottom crust and the smaller will be the top. Weigh the dough and then split it into two disks, weighing each to make sure it's correct.  If you don't have a scale, eye-ball the amounts. 

Chill the dough in the coldest part of the refrigerator (the center of the center shelf) for 1 to 24 hours, to relax the gluten and firm the fat; placing it in the freezer is not as effective. Dough that has rested for 24 hours before rolling, has the best chance of being flaky and tender. If rolling out within 3 days, keep it in the refrigerator, otherwise freeze it. 

If you're making pastry, make it the day before and let it rest overnight in the refrigerator and you'll always have a much better dough. It's rested, the butter has chilled completely again, and the pastry will shrink much less.

To begin, I always shape the mixed dough into a flatted disk (not a ball) as soon as it's made and then chill it. The shape helps to chill it faster (and evenly) and makes rolling faster because of it's already round and flat shape.

To make a disk, shape by GENTLY and quickly pressing the mixture together with the cupped palms of your hands. Rotate the dough until it forms the right shape, the larger and flatter the better--don't overwork the dough--it should just stick together and will not be smooth. This will make the dough easier to roll out later without cracking. 

If using a stand mixer and the dough needs correcting because it's too dry or too wet, do this step by hand; do not use the mixer as it will process the dough too much. 

If the dough does not hold together AT ALL, it is too dry. If it is too mushy, the dough is too wet. (To correct either situation). If in doubt, gather into a disk, chill and see how it looks before rolling. 

When done forming a disk, place it in the middle of a large piece of waxed paper or plastic wrap, and with it, press the crumbly pieces back into the disk. Place it in an airtight plastic bag and then in the refrigerator. 

In order to be pliable, pie dough needs to be thoroughly hydrated. That requires a resting period in the fridge between the time the dough is made and when it is rolled out. That will allow the relatively small amount of liquid added to pie dough to thoroughly soak into the flour. This step is NOT optional! And it makes the single biggest difference that I've ever seen in a pie crust.

Chilling allows the fat to reharden so that the dough is firm when rolled and helps to evenly distribute the moisture in it. It also allows the gluten strands developed during mixing to relax (some always develops, no matter how careful you are), lessening pie crust shrinkage during baking. For most dough, a minimum of an hour or two in the refrigerator will suffice. When I make dough in large quantities, I prefer to let them chill and rest overnight.  

The dough can be frozen for longer storage up to 3 months.  If frozen and not yet rolled, thaw it in the refrigerator for at least 3 hours or overnight before using.  (You can also roll it out first, shape it into a pan and then freeze it. You need not thaw before using.)

Basics #5:

ROLL OUT THE DOUGH: The goal is to roll the dough into a uniform round, approximately 3 - 4 inches larger in diameter than your pie pan, with 1/8 inch in thickness, measured with a premeasured toothpick. The dough has be rolled quickly before it becomes soft and unworkable. If the dough becomes too soft, refrigerate it for 15 minutes. If it is too hard and cracks (you can patch it), let it sit at room temperature, just until softened, but still cold. Dough rolling techniques, problems and solutions are also discussed below.

For pat-in-the-pan crusts: Combine ingredients. Press the mixture with a large spoon or with an empty measuring cup, evenly and firmly into the bottom and up the side of an UNGREASED pan. 

1. Make sure the dough has chilled in a disk shape for at least an hour (more is preferable) or if frozen, has thawed in the refrigerator before rolling. Remove the single dough disk or the larger one for a 2-crust pie, from the refrigerator (if frozen, it is best to allow it to defrost in the refrigerator for at least 3 hours, or overnight) and allow it to sit for about 5 to 10 minutes or until it softens enough to be malleable. Do not let it get too warm, otherwise place it back in the fridge. Keep the dough for a lattice or upper crust refrigerated while rolling the bottom,until you need it in Step #7. Always work quickly so the dough doesn't have a chance to soften. 

Roll to an 1/8-inch thickness and the following diameter:

PAN SIZE:

DIAMETER:

9-inch Pie

13 inches

9-inch, double crust pie

12 inches

10-inch Tart Pan

14-inches

2. Determine how large you need to roll the dough. A piece of waxed paper is 12-inches wide. Cut off a piece 12-inches long. Roll the circle of dough so it touches the center of all 4 sides of a square. If you need a 13-inch diameter dough, make it an inch larger on all sides.

3.The tendency is to throw lots of flour on the work surface and pin to keep dough from sticking, but the result will be a flavorless and tough crust when baked. There are several ways to roll dough. Use a floured pastry cloth and a rolling pin sleeve, or two sheets of lightly floured plastic wrap on top of a counter, marble block or other smooth surface.

MY WAY: By the way, I don't recommend rolling pastry dough, directly on marble, or any other surface, for that matter. I know that many pastry chefs do, but I find that I end up incorporating too much flour into the dough. Instead I lay a lightly floured canvas pastry cloth on the board and pull a floured cotton sleeve over the pin; both of these add just enough flour to prevent sticking.

No matter which technique you use, the best work surface to use for rolling dough on is a cool  one.

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Marble or Granite: keeps cold the longest. If you need to chill it beforehand, do so with a bag of ice placed on top before using. 

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Silpat Baking Mats: both non-stick and reusable, they are the perfect rolling surface. I just love them !! Before using, I chill mine in the refrigerator until cold and leave out the flour dusting part.  

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Formica:  For years, I have used a Formica  top quite successfully, chilled beforehand with a bag of ice placed on top before using.

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Two Pieces of Waxed Paper or Plastic Wrap: Roll the dough in between two pieces of waxed paper or plastic wrap and roll. This is done if your dough is soft, usually from added sugar, cream cheese and/or eggs, if the room is too warm, softening the dough quickly, or if you have trouble with rolling, in general,

OTHER: Start by lightly flouring a work surface with pinches of flour, rather than handfuls. Lightly dust the rolling pin, too. Place the dough disk in the center of the flour dusting. Then, lightly sprinkle it with more pinches of flour on top. 

Dough can also be rolled in between two pieces of waxed paper or plastic wrap, eliminating the need for a flour-dusted work surface. This is especially so when rolling chilled soft doughs, such as those with sugar, cream cheese or eggs or those that are just soft in general. These types stick easily when rolled directly with a rolling pin dusted in flour. It's so much easier to roll the dough this way, especially when using it as a sling to ease the dough into the pan.  

I like to roll sticky cookie dough in between two Silpat Non-stick Mats. I put the dough on one and cover it with the other, and apply my rolling pin to the top. If I have to refrigerate it, I simply do so with the dough still on the mat.

To prepare for rolling the dough between waxed paper or plastic wrap: tear two large pieces of waxed paper or plastic wrap, and place one on the work surface. Do not dust it with flour. Place the dough disk in the center or it, and again, do not dust it with flour. Then, cover the dough with the remaining piece placed on top and lined up with the bottom piece's edges. Go to the next step.

To roll, I like to use a tapered wooden pin or one with straight edges. I also have one which is stainless steel, which I chill beforehand, making rolling a breeze. Remember to lightly flour your rolling pin before rolling; the dough will be less likely to stick to it. 

4. My method of starting my dough rolling is simple: flatten the well-chilled disk by smacking it with the long part of the rolling pin. If you are rolling a naturally soft dough or one with a lot of sugar, lightly smack it in between two pieces of plastic wrap. 

After each "hit", make sure you don't do the next one on the same spot and rotate the dough. After four smacks, turn it over, and do so in the opposite direction. The goal it to soften the dough while keeping it's round shape before rolling. Do not fret if you get a crack; it's because the dough is too cold. Let it sit, covered for a few minutes at room temperature to soften. (What to do ?).

5. Use firm, steady pressure to roll the dough into a circle about 1/8 inch thick or slightly less. As the center tends to be the thickest part, roll from the center out; starting with the rolling pin in the center of the dough, even if covered with waxed paper or plastic wrap, always  roll, with light, even pressure, away from you to the opposite side. Stop the rolling pin as it nears the edges; don't roll over the edges as they crack or become too thin. Roll again towards the center. Avoid rolling over the same spot multiple times.

For even rolling, buy wooden dowels, 1/8-inch in diameter, at the hardware store.  Place them on either side of the dough. Place the rolling pin on top and roll-out the dough until it is even with the top of the dowel or 1/8-inch thick.  Make sure you rotate the dough. 

If the dough is too cold, it will crack and break up during rolling, so let it sit a few minutes at room temperature to warm. If, at any time, the dough becomes too soft, refrigerate it until firm. However, don't bunch it up to do so; simply place the dough as is on a cookie sheet with the help of a large spatula, if necessary. 

The freezer can speed up the process, but watch the dough carefully so it doesn't get too cold. If it does, let it warm a few minutes at room temperature before proceeding.

6.  After one quick forward and backward stroke, rotate the dough a quarter turn, tossing a light dusting of flour beneath, only if necessary. If rolling between two pieces of plastic wrap, no need to flour in between the sheets. Instead, simply turn the dough with the sheets attached. Then, resume rolling from the center out. 

Lift and move the dough occasionally to make sure it is not sticking, and flour lightly under the dough only if it is necessary. If at any point the dough becomes too soft, slip it, still on the cloth or plastic wrap, onto a baking sheet, cover it and refrigerate or freeze until firm. If using plastic wrap, you can lift the ends of it to reposition the dough so that you are always rolling away from you, which is the most effective technique. Turn over the dough, in the plastic wrap, and lift and replace the wrap as necessary to be sure the wrap is not creasing and folding into the dough.

To keep from sticking, sprinkle pinches of flour underneath by lifting one edge of the dough, only if necessary. A long angled spatula or long knife to help you lift up the dough if it sticks to the countertop.  Avoid using your hands as they are one of the hottest parts of your body and the warmth from them will ruin the dough. 

Some bakers flip the dough over and roll it on the opposite side. To do, use a dough scraper, lift the onto the rolling pin, pick it up, re-flour and replace the dough upside down.

7. Stop adjusting and rolling until you get about an 1/8-inch in thickness and the dough is approximately 3 - 4 inches larger in diameter than your pie pan. Use an expandable flan ring or cardboard templates as a guide. For 9-inch pies, you usually cut a 13-inch circle. (Other sizes). Use a pre-measured toothpick to judge its thickness in a couple of places: the center and both opposite ends. 

8. After rolling it out, you'll want to adjust the dough so it is shaped into a circle, if it isn't already. Do this by lightly and quickly shaping it with your right and left cupped hands. Place each on the opposite edge of the dough, with the bottom edge of each palm resting on the work surface. To shape, use both hands at the same time and keeping the edge of your palm on the work surface at all times, gently tap and cup the edge of the dough, rounding it,  Move both hands to another position, and repeat, going all the way around the dough, if necessary. This will give it a more rounded shape.  

Another way is to cut the dough; it's easiest and most precise to cut out the circle of dough before transferring it to the pie or tart pan. Again, use an expandable flan ring or cardboard templates as a guide. For 9-inch pies, you usually cut a 13-inch circle. Cut with a sharp knife. 

9. Go to Step #6, on the next page. There you will learn how to place the dough in the pie pan, finish the edges, fill and bake. An important thing to remember is that after you form the dough in the pie pan, you will chill the dough again, and let it rest in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 hours, preferably overnight.

Dough Rolling Problems and Solutions: Sometimes problems arise during the making of a pie crust.

PROBLEM:

SOLUTION:

Dough is too warm or too cold. Too Warm:  Place it on a cookie sheet with a long metal spatula. DO NOT reform. Let the dough chill until firmed, about 20 minutes. Too Cold:  Let the dough sit at room temperature to warm slightly for a few minutes.
Sticks to the surface or the rolling pin  Carefully pry the dough from the surface with a long spatula. In the future, continuously flour the rolling pin and the rolling surface. Always use pinches of flour instead of larger amounts.
Dough tears and is fragile during rolling  The dough may be too warm. Flaky Dough: Very slightly moisten the edge of the tear with water and overlap a small piece of rolled dough to patch. Carefully roll over the patch. Other Dough: Press tear together and continue rolling. Last Resort: If either dough is unworkable, place it on a cookie sheet with a large metal spatula as is. Cover and chill for about 20 minutes until firm. 
Dough cracks during rolling Dough is too cold. Let it sit a few minutes at room temperature to warm slightly. Then, fix cracks by pressing them together, moistening slightly or overlap. Roll over the fixed area carefully.
Edges crack during rolling Rolling over the edges causes them to crack. Roll the dough just to the edge, and then roll again towards the center. Press the cracked areas together. They will most likely be trimmed later, but you don't want them to deepen.
Dough tears when being moved into the pan. Patch with extra pieces of dough or press edges together after moistening with water. 

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