|
|
Pie & Tart
Crust Basics
Page 1
|
|
|
 |
BEFORE
YOU START - When
making a pie crust,
ALWAYS THINK
COLD for a flaky
crust. The ingredients must be cold to start with and stay cold. WHY? |
Measure flour and any dry
ingredients greater than 1/4 cup with the spoon and sweep method and liquid
ingredients with a liquid measuring cup. Measure small amounts, such as baking
powder with measuring spoons. Blend the flour, salt and
optionally baking powder, sugar and any other dry ingredients in a medium bowl.
In addition, some
bakers, who live in hot and humid climates, freeze the flour (without the other
dry ingredients blended in) for 15 to 20 minutes right before using. Set aside
while preparing the fat and ice water.
|
If
your butter is frozen, do not thaw it. Instead, grate it into a bowl or
piece of waxed paper. Simply place back in the freezer until firm again.
It's then ready to use.
To prevent your fingers
from getting nicked when grating, cover two or three of them with metal
thimbles. You'll be able to grate much faster and closer. |
Start with chilled or frozen butter
(frozen is better). Measure and cut the butter into small, evenly-sized 1/4-inch
cubes. This makes it a perfect size when later blending it into the flour and
dry ingredients. (Step #2) I then return the fat
to the freezer to chill again while preparing the other ingredients.
In the meantime, the water or any
other liquid used should be icy cold water, not right from the tap. To prepare,
simply put some ice in a small glass and add water to it. Let it sit until very
cold and then measure -- just dip the measuring spoon into the water, making
sure there aren't any ice cubes in it.
If using eggs, take them directly
from the fridge, and beat them into the measured water. Do the same with the
vinegar. Return to fridge until ready to use to keep cold.
|
Basics
#2: |
ADD THE FAT TO THE FLOUR / DRY INGREDIENTS AND
CUT-IN: Before cutting in the fat with the flour and dry
ingredients, make sure it and any water or liquids (such as eggs, vinegar,
etc.) are well chilled. Cut the fat in until your mixture resembles small
peas. The more you incorporate the fat past that point, the less flaky
your crust will be.
Food Processor: Fitted
with a metal blade, quickly pulse the dry ingredients 3 times, at 1 second
intervals, to combine them. |
|
 |
|
Go With Pea-Sized
Fat for Pies: When solid fat (lard, hydrogenated shortening,
butter or margarine) is cut into pastry, it results in relatively large
pieces of fat. For size reference, we refer to these pieces of fat as being
the size of peas. When these fat pieces melt into pools, they give layers
for flakiness. If the fat is cut into smaller crumb-sized particles, the
pastry will be less flaky but more tender and mealy. In a food science
class, stacked pastry strips are used to compare these two methods. The
greater height of the strips with fat cut into pea-sized pieces indicates
that pastry is more flaky than the one with crumb-sized fat pieces. From
Iowa State University. |
When the
fat and flour are mixed properly, the mixture should be slightly yellow (if
using butter or margarine). It should have pea
or the same size pea sized-like pieces of fat well distributed throughout; it
should not be mealy or floury.
|
You can
mix together the fat and the flour, and other dry ingredients, in a stand
mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Mix on low and be careful not to over
process. Scrape down and continue to mix until the mixture resembles coarse
crumbs, with no large pieces of fat visible. |
A dough made with inadequately
distributed fat is more problematic than one that is over-mixed -- it will be
difficult to roll out; the butter will stick to the rolling pin, the butter
chunks will melt and the dough may tear. Or, dough made with overworked fat will
be heavy and sodden after baking.
To accomplish this step, first add
the prepared fat from Step # 1, to the flour
mixture by sprinkling the pieces evenly around the bowl. If at any time
the fat gets too warm and soft, cover entire mixture with plastic wrap and place
in refrigerator until chilled. Resume, again.
Then, you can cut in the fat in
several ways:
 |
By
hand: pick-up a small piece of fat and some flour with your
fingertips in both hands. You don't want to use the palm of your hand
because it is very warm and will melt the fat. Quickly work the fat into
the flour by rubbing small pieces of the butter and flour in between your
fingers and thumb. Then let it drop back into bowl and start again with
another piece of fat and flour mixture. Continuously pinch and squeeze all
of the butter into the dry ingredients. Reach into the bottom of the bowl
with both hands from time to time and redistribute the ingredients.
|
|
 |
Using
two table knives: with the blades almost touching each other,
move knives back and forth in opposite directions in a parallel cutting
motion. |
|
 |
With
a pastry blender: work up and down in the mixture,
rolling on either side of its edge. |
|
 |
Food
processor: Use the metal blade and add the chilled fat pieces
to the work bowl containing the flour and any other dry ingredients.
Quickly pulse it one-second at a time, up to15 times, to combine the dry
ingredients with the fat, until crumbly. The fat pieces should be barely
visible. When the mixture is properly mixed, it will be slightly yellow,
mealy in texture rather than floury, and it will ride up the sides of the
bowl. At this point transfer the mixture to a separate bowl for the
next step, when water is added; the risk of
overprocesing is high if water is not added by hand. |
|
|
Basics
#3: |
SPRINKLE THE ICE WATER OVER THE
FLOUR / FAT MIXTURE: The goal is
to mix in the bare minimum or water and other liquids, with the flour and
butter mixture, so it still looks dry and just barely holds together when
pinched together; you don't want a wet and sticky dough. Take care not to
overwork the dough. |
|
Change
to a dough hook, mix on low speed and slowly add ice water. Use less water
than the recipe calls for, if possible. Continue mixing until dough pulls
away from the sides of the bowl. Do not over work the dough as the it
does not need to be completely homogenous. Stop the mixer and
do the
pinch test to see if you have added enough
liquids. If you have, move to the next
step. |
|
The amount of water
necessary to bring a dough together can vary up to 50 percent depending upon
how dry the flour is.
If more water is
needed, sprinkle one teaspoon at a time for a one-crust dough and one
tablespoon at a time for a two-crust dough, gently tossing the ingredients
together after each addition. If more flour is needed, do the same. DO NOT
OVERMIX.. |
Make sure the butter or fat is still
cold in the flour mixture before adding water or liquids. If not, cover and
return to fridge or freezer until chilled.
Likewise, any liquid ingredient,
such as water, white wine vinegar or eggs should be very cold and mixed together
before adding to the recipe. Use ice water, not cold water from the tap because
it's colder.
Start by
sprinkling the BARE
MINIMUM of water or liquid mixture over the
flour / butter mixture while tossing it gently with a fork; the less used,
the more tender the pie crust.
Constantly reach down
into the bottom of the bowl with a fork to work in the liquids, being careful
not squish or flatten the fat before deciding whether to add more water.
Work quickly or the
fat will become soft and sticky, leading to a flavorless tough crust when baked.
If it happens, place it back in the refrigerator and for less time in the
freezer until well-chilled. (I also put the liquids in the refrigerator to chill
at the same time) Then, resume again.
|
Pinch
Test: Use the pinch test
often to see if your dough has the right amount of liquid added to it.
TO DO:
Pick up a small clump and gently
squeeze. Stop when the dough just sticks together with small dry cracks.
After mixing, the perfect pie crust dough should look crumbly and
dry; do not knead the dough to smooth. The next step is to gather and press
the dough pieces into a disk and chill it. |
Do not over do
the liquids
and the mixing; use the
Pinch Test
to determine whether or not you should stop. Gluten forms whenever wheat
flour is moistened and stirred, with an excess resulting in a tough and
not-so-flaky crust. These precautions mostly concern the flaky dough, with less
importance to the sweet dough because of its high sugar content. If problems
arise,
see solutions below.
Fraisage:
After mixing pie dough, it should just
cling together. At this stage, you can make a ball of dough, and chill it, or
you can further layer together the fat and flour and increase flakiness by a
technique known in French as fraisage. It is a way to blend the dough. This
makes flat pieces of fat smeared in between the flour, which is optimal when
making a very flaky crust.
To do: break off a
small lump of dough, put it under the heel of your hand on the counter, and push
on the dough as you slide it forward about 4 inches. Scrape up and set aside
that piece of dough and repeat with the remaining dough.
Then gather the pieces of smeared
dough into a disk, in the next step.
Food
Processor: Scatter water over the flour
mixture and pulse it 5 to 6 times at one second intervals. Don't allow the dough
to start clumping together. However, I don't recommend using a processor
for this stage, as it is easy to overwork the dough. Finish mixing the dough by
hand so it comes together.
|
DOUGH MIXING PROBLEMS: |
DOUGH
MIXING SOLUTIONS: |
|
Flour & butter
mixture becomes pasty and sticky |
The butter is melting. If the
ingredients are now yet mixed, force the dough to accept at least 3/4
of the liquid called for. Stir it in a fork. The dough
will be very soft; leave as is. |
|
Large lumps in the
dough |
Press the dough into a rectangle about
3/8 inch thick. Fold it in half onto itself a couple of times,
and press down, to work in the fat particles; do not knead. If the
lumps are really large, break the dough into chunks, and try to work
in the large pieces of fat ONLY, in each chunk with fingertips. Then,
form into a disc. |
|
Ingredients are
still dry |
If your dough is too
dry and the pieces will not stick together, sprinkle drops of
cold ice water on the crust ingredients. Mix them together quickly
with a fork and press the dough together motion. |
|
Dough is very dry |
Tear dough into particles.
Scatter drops of water on it. Toss them in with a fork until the
dough holds together. A dough made without enough water will be
difficult to form into a disk (next step),
and will tear and crumble when rolled out
(Step#5). |
|
Dough is very wet |
Sprinkle 1 teaspoon of flour (1 tablespoon if a double crust pie) at a
time on the ingredients and fold the dough onto itself three or four
times. It should absorb the flour. |
|
Excerpted from
Nick Malgieri, Perfect Pastry, Macmillan, NY, 1969 |
|
|
Basics
#4: |
FORM THE DOUGH INTO A DISK & CHILL:
The disk (not a ball) should be at least 5 to 6-inches across and
1-inch high -- it should JUST hold together if a small piece is pressed
between your index finger and thumb. It should also look dry and crumbly. Do
not smooth it or add more water. It is perfect; wrap and chill it. I
have found that if I wrap the dough in waxed paper, the outside won't get
sticky, as it does with plastic wrap. |
For a
2-crust pie, I like to create two flat disks in two-third and one-third
portions, even though many pie recipes call for splitting them into two equal
ones. The larger amount will be the bottom crust and the smaller will
be the top. Weigh the dough and then split it into two disks, weighing each to
make sure it's correct. If you don't have a scale, eye-ball the amounts.
Chill the
dough in the coldest part of the refrigerator (the center of the center shelf)
for 1 to 24 hours, to relax the gluten and firm the fat; placing it in the
freezer is not as effective. Dough that has rested for 24 hours
before rolling, has the best chance of being flaky and tender. If rolling out
within 3 days, keep it in the refrigerator, otherwise freeze it.
|
If you're making pastry,
make it the day before and let it rest overnight in the refrigerator and
you'll always have a much better dough. It's rested, the butter has chilled
completely again, and the pastry will shrink much less. |
To begin, I always shape the mixed
dough into a flatted disk (not a ball) as soon as it's made and then chill it.
The shape helps to chill it faster (and evenly) and makes rolling faster because
of it's already round and flat shape.
To make a disk, shape by GENTLY and
quickly pressing the mixture together with the cupped palms of your hands. Rotate
the dough until it forms the right shape, the larger and flatter the
better--don't overwork the dough--it should just stick together and will not be
smooth. This will make the dough easier to roll out later without cracking.
|
If
using a stand mixer and the dough needs correcting because it's too dry or
too wet, do this step by hand; do not use the mixer as it will process the
dough too much. |
If the dough
does not hold together AT ALL, it is too dry. If it is too mushy, the dough is
too wet. (To correct either
situation). If in doubt, gather into a disk, chill and see how it
looks before rolling.
When done
forming a disk, place it in the middle of a large piece
of waxed paper or plastic wrap, and with it, press the crumbly pieces back into
the disk. Place it in an airtight plastic bag and then in the refrigerator.
|
In
order to be pliable, pie dough needs to be thoroughly hydrated.
That requires a resting period in the fridge between the time the dough is
made and when it is rolled out. That will allow the relatively small amount
of liquid added to pie dough to thoroughly soak into the flour. This step is
NOT optional! And it makes the single biggest difference that I've ever seen
in a pie crust. |
Chilling allows the fat to reharden so that the
dough is firm when rolled and helps to evenly distribute the moisture in it. It
also allows the gluten
strands developed during mixing to relax (some always develops,
no matter how careful you are), lessening pie crust shrinkage during baking. For
most dough, a minimum of an hour or two in the refrigerator will suffice. When I
make dough in large quantities, I prefer to let them chill and rest overnight.
The dough can
be frozen for longer storage up to 3 months. If frozen and not yet rolled,
thaw it in the refrigerator for at least 3 hours or overnight before using.
(You can also roll it out first, shape it into a pan and then freeze it. You
need not thaw before using.)
|
Basics
#5: |
ROLL OUT THE DOUGH:
The goal is to roll the dough into a uniform round, approximately
3 - 4 inches larger in diameter
than your pie pan, with 1/8 inch in thickness, measured with a premeasured
toothpick. The dough has be rolled quickly before it becomes soft
and unworkable. If the dough becomes too soft, refrigerate it for 15
minutes. If it is too hard and cracks
(you can patch it), let it sit at room temperature, just until
softened, but still cold. Dough rolling techniques,
problems and solutions
are also discussed below. |
|
For
pat-in-the-pan crusts: Combine
ingredients. Press the mixture with a large spoon or with an empty measuring
cup, evenly and firmly into the bottom and up the side of an UNGREASED pan. |
1.
Make sure the dough has chilled in a disk shape for at
least an hour (more is preferable) or if frozen, has thawed in the refrigerator
before rolling. Remove the single dough disk or the larger one for a
2-crust pie, from the refrigerator
(if frozen, it is best to
allow it to defrost in the refrigerator for at least 3 hours, or overnight) and
allow it to sit for about 5 to 10 minutes or until it softens enough to be
malleable. Do not let it get too warm,
otherwise place it back in the fridge. Keep
the dough for a lattice or upper crust refrigerated while rolling the bottom,until
you need it in Step #7.
Always work quickly so the
dough doesn't have a chance to soften.
|
Roll to an 1/8-inch thickness
and the following diameter:
|
PAN SIZE: |
DIAMETER: |
|
9-inch Pie |
13 inches |
|
9-inch, double crust
pie |
12 inches |
|
10-inch Tart Pan |
14-inches |
|
2.
Determine how large you need to roll the dough.
A piece of waxed paper is 12-inches wide. Cut off a piece
12-inches long. Roll the circle of dough so it touches the center of all 4 sides
of a square. If you need a 13-inch diameter dough, make it an inch larger on all
sides.
3.The
tendency is to throw lots of flour on the work surface and pin to keep dough
from sticking, but the result will be a flavorless and tough crust when baked.
There are several ways to roll dough.
Use a floured pastry cloth
and a rolling pin sleeve, or two sheets of lightly floured plastic wrap on top
of a counter, marble block or other smooth surface.
MY WAY: By
the way, I don't recommend rolling pastry dough, directly on marble, or any
other surface, for that matter. I know that many pastry chefs do, but I find
that I end up incorporating too much flour into the dough. Instead I lay a
lightly floured canvas pastry cloth on the board and pull a floured cotton
sleeve over the pin; both of these add just enough flour to prevent sticking.
|
No
matter which technique you use, the
best work surface to use for rolling dough on is a cool one.
 |
Marble or Granite: keeps cold the
longest. If you need to chill it beforehand, do so with a bag of ice
placed on top before using. |
|
 |
Silpat Baking Mats:
both non-stick and reusable, they are the perfect rolling surface. I
just love them !! Before using, I chill mine in the refrigerator until
cold and leave out the flour dusting part.
|
|
 |
Formica: For years, I have used
a Formica top quite successfully, chilled beforehand with a bag
of ice placed on top before using.
|
|
 |
Two Pieces of Waxed Paper or Plastic Wrap:
Roll the dough in between two pieces of waxed paper or plastic wrap
and roll. This is done if
your dough is soft, usually from added sugar, cream cheese and/or
eggs, if the room is too warm, softening the dough quickly, or if you
have trouble with rolling, in general, |
|
|
OTHER:
Start by lightly flouring a work surface with pinches of
flour, rather than handfuls. Lightly dust the rolling pin, too. Place the dough
disk in the center of the flour dusting. Then, lightly sprinkle it with more
pinches of flour on top.
Dough can also be
rolled in between two pieces of waxed paper or plastic wrap, eliminating the
need for a flour-dusted work surface. This is especially so when rolling chilled
soft doughs, such as those with sugar, cream cheese or eggs or those that are
just soft in general. These
types stick easily when rolled directly with a rolling pin dusted in flour.
It's so much
easier to roll the dough this way, especially when using it as a sling to
ease the dough into the pan.
|
I like to roll sticky
cookie dough in between two
Silpat Non-stick Mats.
I put the dough on one and cover it with the other, and apply my rolling pin
to the top. If I have to refrigerate it, I simply do so with the dough still
on the mat. |
To prepare for rolling the dough
between waxed paper or plastic wrap: tear two large pieces of waxed paper or
plastic wrap, and place one on the work surface. Do not dust it with flour.
Place the dough disk in the center or it, and again, do not dust it with flour.
Then, cover the dough with the remaining piece placed on top and lined up with
the bottom piece's edges. Go to the next step.
4.
My method of starting my dough rolling is
simple: flatten
the well-chilled disk by smacking it with the long part of the rolling pin. If
you are rolling a naturally soft dough or one with a lot of sugar, lightly smack
it in between two pieces of plastic wrap.
After each "hit", make sure you don't do the next
one on the same spot and rotate the dough. After four smacks, turn it over, and
do so in the opposite direction. The goal it to soften the dough while keeping
it's round shape before rolling. Do not fret if you get a crack; it's because
the dough is too cold. Let it sit, covered for a few minutes at room temperature
to soften. (What
to do ?).
5. Use
firm, steady pressure to roll the dough into a circle about 1/8 inch thick or
slightly less. As the center tends to be the thickest part, roll from the center
out;
starting with the
rolling pin in the center of the dough, even if covered with waxed paper or
plastic wrap, always roll, with light, even pressure, away from you to the
opposite side. Stop
the rolling pin as it nears the edges; don't roll over the edges as they crack
or become too thin.
Roll again towards the center. Avoid rolling over the same spot multiple times.
|
For even rolling, buy wooden
dowels, 1/8-inch in diameter, at the hardware store. Place them on
either side of the dough. Place the rolling pin on top and roll-out the
dough until it is even with the top of the dowel or 1/8-inch thick.
Make sure you rotate the dough. |
If the dough
is too cold, it will crack and break up during rolling, so let it sit a few
minutes at room temperature to warm. If, at any time, the dough becomes too
soft, refrigerate it until firm. However, don't bunch it up to do so; simply
place the dough as is on a cookie sheet with the help of a large spatula, if
necessary.
The freezer
can speed up the process, but watch the dough carefully so it doesn't get too
cold. If it does, let it warm a few minutes at room temperature before
proceeding.
6.
After one quick forward and backward stroke, rotate the
dough a quarter turn, tossing a light dusting of flour beneath, only if
necessary. If rolling between two pieces of plastic wrap, no need to flour in
between the sheets. Instead, simply turn the dough with the sheets attached.
Then, resume rolling from the center out.
Lift and
move the dough occasionally to make sure it is not sticking, and flour lightly
under the dough only if it is necessary. If at any point the dough becomes too
soft, slip it, still on the cloth or plastic wrap, onto a baking sheet, cover it
and refrigerate or freeze until firm. If using plastic wrap, you can lift the
ends of it to reposition the dough so that you are always rolling away from you,
which is the most effective technique. Turn over the dough, in the plastic wrap,
and lift and replace the wrap as necessary to be sure the wrap is not creasing
and folding into the dough.
To keep from sticking, sprinkle
pinches of flour underneath by lifting one edge of the dough, only if necessary.
A long angled spatula or long knife to help you lift up the dough if it sticks
to the countertop. Avoid using your hands as they are one of the hottest
parts of your body and the warmth from them will ruin the dough.
Some bakers flip the dough over and
roll it on the opposite side. To do, use a dough scraper, lift the onto the
rolling pin, pick it up, re-flour and replace the dough upside down.
7. Stop
adjusting and rolling until you get about an 1/8-inch in thickness and the dough
is approximately 3 - 4 inches larger
in diameter than your pie pan. Use
an expandable flan ring or cardboard templates as a guide. For 9-inch pies, you
usually cut a 13-inch circle.
(Other sizes).
Use a pre-measured
toothpick to judge its thickness in a couple of places: the center and both
opposite ends.
8.
After rolling it out, you'll want to adjust
the dough so it is shaped into a circle, if it isn't already. Do this
by lightly and quickly shaping it with your right and left cupped hands. Place
each on the opposite edge of the dough, with the bottom edge of each palm
resting on the work surface. To shape, use both hands at the same time and
keeping the edge of your palm on the work surface at all times, gently tap and
cup the edge of the dough, rounding it, Move both hands to another
position, and repeat, going all the way around the dough, if necessary. This
will give it a more rounded shape.
Another way is to cut the dough; it's easiest and most precise
to cut out the circle of dough before transferring it to the pie or tart pan.
Again, use an expandable flan ring or cardboard templates as a guide. For 9-inch
pies, you usually cut a 13-inch circle. Cut with a sharp knife.
9. Go to
Step #6, on the next page. There
you will learn how to place the dough in the pie pan, finish the edges, fill and
bake. An important thing to remember is that after you form the dough in the pie
pan, you will chill the dough again, and let it rest in the refrigerator for 1
to 2 hours, preferably overnight.
|
PROBLEM: |
SOLUTION: |
|
Dough is too warm or too cold. |
Too Warm: Place it on a cookie
sheet with a long metal spatula. DO NOT reform. Let the dough chill until
firmed, about 20 minutes. Too
Cold: Let
the dough sit at room temperature to warm slightly for a few minutes. |
|
Sticks to the surface or the rolling pin |
Carefully pry
the dough from the surface with a long spatula. In the future, continuously
flour the rolling pin and the rolling surface. Always use pinches of flour
instead of larger amounts. |
|
Dough tears and is
fragile during rolling |
The dough may
be too warm. Flaky Dough: Very slightly
moisten the edge of the tear with water and overlap a small piece of rolled
dough to patch. Carefully roll over the patch.
Other Dough: Press tear together and continue rolling.
Last Resort: If either dough is
unworkable, place it on a cookie sheet with a large metal spatula as is.
Cover and chill for about 20 minutes until firm. |
|
Dough cracks during rolling |
Dough is too
cold. Let it sit a few minutes at room temperature to warm slightly. Then,
fix cracks by pressing them together, moistening slightly or overlap. Roll
over the fixed area carefully. |
|
Edges crack during rolling |
Rolling over
the edges causes them to crack. Roll the dough just to the edge, and then
roll again towards the center. Press the cracked areas together. They will
most likely be trimmed later, but you don't want them to deepen. |
|
Dough tears when being moved into the pan. |
Patch with extra
pieces of dough or press edges together after moistening with water. |
|
| |