A souffle starts with a roux (pronounced roo) -- in this case, a mixture of flour and butter. Bechamel (pronounced bay-shah-MEHL) sauce is made by blending hot milk with the roux to form the base of the souffle; egg yolks and cheese are then added. Beating egg whites to the proper degree of stiffness is a challenge for many cooks. But it is the key to ensuring that your souffle rises.

With a salad and some French bread, this souffle makes a delicious lunch or dinner.

1 cup milk (preferably whole, not low-fat)
3 tablespoons butter, at room temperature, plus additional for the mold
6 tablespoons flour, plus additional for the mold
4 eggs, separated, at room temperature
About 4 ounces finely grated Gruyere or comte cheese*
Salt and freshly ground black or white pepper to taste
Freshly grated nutmeg to taste
2 egg whites, at room temperature
Generous pinch cream of tartar

Adjust the oven rack to the middle position. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Have ready a large bowl filled halfway with cold water.

Generously butter a 1 1/2- or 2-quart soufflé mold, being sure to butter the top of the rim. Add about 2 tablespoons of flour to the mold and turn the mold on its side, tapping the mold to lightly coat the entire interior. Invert the mold and tap to release any excess flour. Refrigerate the mold.

In a wide, deep pan over medium-high heat, bring the milk to a boil.

Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan or pot over medium-high heat, melt the butter. Working quickly and stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, remove the pan with the melted butter from the heat and add the flour all at once, stirring and scraping the mixture from the sides of the pan with the tip of the spoon, until the flour is completely incorporated and the mixture forms a roux. The roux should retain its cream color and not turn brown. Quickly transfer the pan to the bowl of cold water for 5 seconds to stop the cooking. Remove the pan and transfer it to the stovetop, but not on a burner.

Add the boiling milk to the roux all at once, stirring constantly and scraping the mixture from the sides of the pan with a wooden spoon. Return the pan to medium heat and, using a whisk, whisk vigorously but briefly until no lumps remain. Remove the pan from the heat; set aside for 3 minutes. (This will prevent the warm mixture from cooking the egg yolks prematurely when they are added in the next step.)

Whisking constantly, add the 4 egg yolks to the pan, 1 at a time, and whisk just until incorporated. Using a wooden spoon, scrape the whisk and the sides of the pan. Add the cheese and stir with the wooden spoon just until incorporated. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste.

(At this point, you may keep the bechamel-cheese base warm at 140 degrees in a double boiler, uncovered, for up to 3 hours, stirring occasionally to prevent a film from forming on the surface.)

In a large clean bowl using the whisk attachment of a standing mixer or an electric mixer on medium speed, beat the 6 egg whites and cream of tartar until the egg whites are frothy, 1 to 2 minutes. Increase the speed to high and continue to beat until the egg whites are stiff. Stop the mixer and remove the whisk or beater from the bowl. The whites are ready when there is a single peak of whites on the bottom of the whisk and a corresponding peak in the middle of the bowl.

Working very quickly, use a rubber spatula to gently add about 1/3 of the egg whites into the bechamel-cheese base. Mix gently until no streaks remain. Quickly but gently scrape the lightened mixture into the remaining egg whites and mix just until no streaks remain and the mixture is completely smooth.

Using the spatula, scrape the mixture into the prepared mold, being careful not to drip or spill along the rim. The mold should be about half full.

Immediately transfer the mold to the oven and place it on the rack; do not place the mold on a baking sheet. Close the oven door and keep it closed. If you do not have a window on your oven door through which to check the soufflé, you may occasionally open the door slightly and peek into the oven, being sure to close the door quickly and gently. Do not slam the door.

Bake the soufflé for 30 to 35 minutes, until the top of the soufflé is golden brown. (Don't worry if there are cracks in the top.) Show it off immediately but set aside to cool slightly prior to serving.

* NOTE: Use a grateable cheese in a soufflé -- never a soft cheese. The amount of cheese that you use depends on its flavor; Gruyere or comte, for example, requires about 4 cups for this recipe. If you choose a strong-flavored Roquefort, use less cheese. Or if you use a salty Parmiggiano-Reggiano, use less cheese and less salt.

Caution: A lumpy roux and lumpy bechamel will ruin a soufflé. And always carefully inspect the bowl in which you will beat the egg whites: even a speck of grease will keep them from beating properly.

Per serving (using low-sodium broth): 216 calories, 27 gm protein, 9 gm carbohydrates, 7 gm fat, 175 mg cholesterol, 1 gm saturated fat, 837 mg sodium, 2 gm dietary fiber

From Washington Post. Francois Dionot is the founder of L'Academie de Cuisine in Bethesda and Gaithersburg (www.lacademie.com). He has taught cooking classes for 25 years and began the first professional culinary school in the nation's capital; the professional school is now located in Gaithersburg.